What I lost:

Lost most of food which was all packed in the rear right pannier by inadvertently feeding two black bears at 2:00 am at Grestle Campground, Salt Water Cove State Park.  Those bears are very clever.  They managed to extract all the food items with their claws without breaking the clasps or putting holes in the pannier.  Obviously they had done this heist before.  Thank you bears for being so mindful and not coming back for seconds.
($25)

Two pairs of flip-flops were lost or left in what I can best describe as flip-flop mayhem.   One flip-flop of the original pair I packed was lost while repairing the rear carrier to jury rig a lost bolt that fell out. The cheap replacement pair did not work because it took too long to dry when wet so I ended up buying a pair of Spenco Kholo flip-flops.  When departing Chad's house in Santa Cruz, one new Spenco flip-flop was mixed up with one flip-flop I was replacing.  Chad sent the orphan Spenco flip-flop by mail to General Delivery in Pismo Beach.  The pair was happily re-united.
($55)

A microfiber towel and well-used but favorite Patagonia short vest were lost on the way to Eureka because I  forgot to lash it down after stopping on the road to eat a banana six miles out of town.
($70)

Bike Stuff:

The Trek 520's chain was replaced since it was worn more than 50%.
($30)

One rear LED red flasher mounted on the rear fender fell off after going over a bump on the road.  It bounced down into a crevasse and was swallowed by the forest.  It was replaced and a foolproof fender mount was fabricated.
($15)

Items almost lost but recovered:

On the ride to Port Orford, a white sedan coming from the opposite direction honked at me.  I waved to him.  A few minutes later, he passed me in the direction I was heading and pulled over on the shoulder ahead of me.  He was waving a yellow vest that looked like mine out the driver's window.  Then it clicked ... my mindfulness lapsed for a minute while layering up and I forgot to put on my visibility vest.  I just laid it on the back of the bike and it fell on the road after I started riding.  The driver was going in the opposite direction at the same time and was trying to get my attention by honking.   The driver turned around and stopped to pick up my yellow visibility vest.  He brought it back to me ...  it was an important safety item.  What a good Samaritan!

I stopped in Dana Point to visit the harbor and had a lunch at Joe's Fish Market.  The smoked salmon and cole slaw was very good.  It was an authentic dive, fresh seafood and good prices. Joe's had picnic tables outside the store where diners could enjoy their meal.  After leaving Dana Harbor, two miles out, I glanced in my rear view mirror which is mounted on my helmet to check on approaching traffic.  To my surprise, the mirror was missing!  It took a few more seconds to realize that I had forgotten to put on my helmet.  I had left the helmet on the picnic table at Joe's.  OK, what was that salmon smoked with anyway, I pondered, trying to make light of a serious matter.  There was nothing else to do but ride back to the fish joint.  I returned in less than 10 minutes.  The helmet was there sitting on the table all by its lonesome waiting for me to retrieve it.

My 8-inch Samsung Galaxy Note tablet performed well despite rigorous and sometimes rough handling.  A stylus is cleverly hidden in a sleeve in the tablet's case ... great design.  The case was shiny white and I was asked repeatedly about my 'iPad.'  I was very glad to inform my inquisitors that this was not an iPad.  With glee, I went on to explain why I did not like iPads (because of iTunes and no SD card slot).  When I purchased it, I did not think I would use its stylus functionality ... I bought it for its speed (quad processor, 2 Gig of RAM).  But in practice I found the stylus very useful and use it, instead of my finger.  Unfortunately, the stylus tried to escape from me several times -- once hiding under the bed sheets, and one time hiding on a restaurant table.  In the first instance, I went back to the motel to retrieve it.  In the second case, an observant waitress brought it out as I was about to ride away.

Take-away lessons:

1. Always store food items in the provided bear/raccoon lockers at the campground.  Do not pitch the tent next to the locker.
2. Be mindful after stopping on the road and taking items out of panniers.  Rick in Eureka made a small reminder sign on yellow paper for me to put in my map holder on the handlebar bag so I would remember to secure items on the bike after stopping on the road.
3. Be mindful when re-packing after an overnight stay.

• Pennies, collected about 20 for good luck
• Roadkill: elk, racoons (many), birds, skunks, one deer, one elk, small snakes ... surprisingly, no cats or dogs
• Discarded old cell phones, covers, cases
• Articles of clothing, shoes, flip flops, T-shirts
• Plastic bottles, mainly water and soda
• Aluminum cans, mainly soda and beer
• Glass bottles, mainly beer and some hard liquor
• Blown out tire bits, rubber pieces, shards
• Other:  stainless cooking  pots, plastic balls, green hard hat, washing machine, wrench, hammer, biking glove
  

Finally, I found a plastic beaded colorful butterfly which I kept attached to the top of my tent for many miles.  One day, I noticed the butterfly 'flew away' while I was riding ... gone to accompany another bike touring person, I'm sure.

I did a seven day test ride last fall to test my gear and my body.  The short tour indicated I needed to change my sleeping bag to a lighter and smaller form factor when stuffed into a sack.  I also realized that I did not experience any major physical issues.

My muscles around my knees became stronger after about 10 days of riding.  That was a good thing because at first my knees tended to buckle after the day's riding.  In case of experiencing knee pain, it usually means the bike seat is too low and/or pedaling too much in high gear.  Pedaling in lower gears with higher cadence is better for the knees and heart.  I did not have much knee pain ... just weakness around the joint.

The butt did not hurt after about a week and felt like it became one with the bike seat.  I did not use traditional padded bike shorts but used padded bike underwear instead with lightweight nylon sports shorts.  Some of the hot days I only wore the boxer style padded underwear.  Chafing on the seat can develop into skin rashes and sores even in one day of riding.  I had this problem early on and used a vaseline-based lotion every time it started to become a problem.  This worked for me and as I added the miles the chafing issue went away.  Some bikers use commercial body lubricant products, such as Body Glide.  Bike seats can also exacerbate chafe if they are too wide or not fitted properly.  Finally, seat pressure may cause perineum (an area between the testicles and anus packed with nerves, male G-spot) discomfort, which is associated with impotence in men.  Whether I developed this condition during the course of two months will require further investigation and research.

Even with good padded bike gloves and extra padding underneath the gel handlebar tape, my hands, wrists,  fingers and arms still tingled or experienced some numbness now and then, and had to do arm stretches while riding.  Moving my hands around the bike also helped, as well as not bending the wrists as I put weight on them.

My head and neck became used to the tilted up forward facing position after weeks of riding and noticed it less and less as the trip went long.  I would say it was a good counter stretch to my hours-on looking down position working with PCs.

I was sweating profusely during hill climbs almost every day which is one of the ways the body eliminates toxins (in addition to its cooling function).  Some toxins and waste products in the blood are able to diffuse into the sweat glands.  Skin pores open and impurities exit,  That is a good thing.  Did I say that I never use deodorant?

The sun worked its magic and I replenished my stores of vitamin D.  Exposed skin areas became suntanned.  I used 40 SPF sunscreen most of the time.  Sunglasses (polarized) were worn most of the time for sun protection and to prevent bugs, as well as possible flying debris from hitting the  eyes.  I did not wear sunglasses when grinding slowly up hills because the sweat from the face would fog it up and because I regularly had to wipe the sweat off around the eyes ... otherwise sun lotion combined with sweat would sting the eyes.  Some riders used a rolled up bandana or handkerchief tied sround the forehead.

I never had any quadriceps pain (tops of thigh) or back pain of any consequence so that never became an issue.  There was a small bottle of ibuprofen in my first aid kit but I never used any.

I carried three water bottles in cages on the bike's tubes so I never experienced dehydration (symptoms: headache, nausea thirst). I made sure to drink plenty of water.   I also drank organic Super Green smoothies (Naked, Odwalla, Evolution) when available.

I would think my cardiovascular endurance improved over two months of riding, but I do not have measured stats to report.  I did not experience any shortness of breath or chest tightness.  You might say that the trip was one big uncontrolled stress test.

I estimate that I burned an additional 1,600 to 2,000 calories each day due to the 'bike riding exercise.'   I lost 10-12 pounds since the start of the trip ... a side benefit for one trying to lose weight.  I tried to eat as healthy as possible and was successful most of the time.  No effort was made to count calories.

Today, I devoted some time to researching shipping the Trek 520 back home.  I checked out several bike shops in the Point Loma area within several miles from the Pt. Loma Hostel regarding packing and shipping the bike to Bellingham, Washington.

I chose Bernie's Bike Shop on 1911 Cable Street in the Ocean Beach neighborhood which is about a mile from the hostel.  Roger and Yasuko run a small shop with great service and reasonable prices.  They have operated the store since 1989.  Roger is the third owner of  Bernie's has been in operation since the 60s.  

After quickly assessing the Trek 520, Roger weighed the bike, and gave me the total weight (box and bike), and box size dimensions which would be used to ship the bike.  He obviously is well versed in the shipping process.  There is a convenient FEDEX station within a block from the store where I purchased a ground shipping label using the weight and box size specs provided.  It was a very straightforward and efficient process. Using this method, the total cost to pack and ship the Trek back to Bellingham, Washington was about $100. I recommend Bernie's Bike Shop and their services.

I chose to return by airline because I found one-way discounted airline fares from Alaska Air direct to Seattle for $105.  Also, I had to be back at a certain date so travel time was an issue.

In comparison, the Amtrak option would have involved departing at 6:05 am, changing trains at the Los Angeles Station, and travel time would have been 34 hours and 27 minutes. The cost would be $164.00 for the ticket, $15.00 for the bike box, and $10.00 check-in luggage fee for the boxed bike.  

Both the airport and the train station are about five miles from the Pt. Loma Hostel.  For a more extensive discussion about bike shipping, see my Blog entry from October 13, 2013.

Distance (mi) = 24.5
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.2
Max Speed (mph) = 24.0
Time (h:m) = 3:00

Route:
Nimitz Blvd., Harbor Drive, Passenger Ferry to Coronado Island, Coronado Bike Path, Beyer Rd., Dairy Mart Rd., San Ysidro Blvd., Mexican border, Tijuana

Today was my last leg of the Border-2-Border challenge. It was a bit anti-climactic and the ride to Mexico was relatively easy until a few miles from the border.  Most of the route was on bike lanes or bike paths.   All flat, no hills of any consequence.  The sky was blue and the temperature was perfect. 

I rode down to Harbor Drive via the Nimitz Blvd.   At Seaport Village, a short ride on a passenger ferry took me to Coronado Island, half of which is a naval air station.  Coronado, dubbed as the "Crown City," offers pristine sand, gentle surf and a community with a small-town feel.  The island is best known for two famous structures, the historic Hotel del Coronado and the iconic San Diego-Coronado Bridge.  Tourists stroll down Orange Avenue, Coronado's main street, which is lined with shops, restaurants, galleries, theaters and the Coronado Historical Museum. At the other end of the island, Coronado's Ferry Landing offers a collection of over 20 shops, art galleries and restaurants boasting stunning views of San Diego's downtown skyline. The historic Hotel del Coronado, built in 1888, has a fascinating and colorful past which includes royalty, politicians, scandals, ghosts and celebrities. It's also widely believed to have been the inspiration for the Emerald City in L. Frank Baum's Wizard of Oz.

These attractions and miles of bike trails make Coronado Island a destination in itself for bikers and tourists.   But I had a very specific mission today -- the culmination of my own challenge to reach the Mexican border after a 2,000 mile adventure. I followed Glorietta Blvd. around the bay and it eventually took me to a seven mile bike path which parallels the Silver Strand Blvd., a long narrow strip of land bordered on one side by the Pacific Ocean and the San Diego Bay on the other. 

The bike path ends at Imperial Beach where 23th Street, Coronado Ave., Beyer Blvd., Dairy Mart Rd., and San Ysidro Blvd. lead you to the Mexican border.  This area is quite busy with much traffic as both tourist and commercial traffic pass through Tijuana. The atmosphere is definitely Mexican where knowledge of the Spanish language is often helpful ... lots of tourist tiendas, bars, and hole-in-the-wall dives in San Ysidro on the American side.  There is a trolley which connects greater San Diego with San Ysidro and points in between.

A separate pedestrian pathway across a sky bridge is used enter the Mexico for those who did not drive a vehicle or decide to park it on the American side.

Ajua!  La frontera Mexicana, 1,974 millas sur de Peace Arch, Canada cruce fronterizo.

Distance (mi) = 25.0
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.5
Max Speed (mph) = 22.0
Time (h:m) = 2:30

Route: SR 21, Solana Beach, Del Mar, Torrey Pines, La Jolla, San Diego,  HI-Pt. Loma Hostel

I left Elijo State Park early after a blustery, windy, noisy and, mostly sleepless night.  The biker camping area is at the far South end of the park with sandy gravel ground and no picnic table, like in other parks.  The biker site is also fully exposed to wind conditions from the Pacific ocean ... it is important to stake the tent out well here.  Rain was in the forecast for later today so I wanted to get a jump start in the hopes of avoiding whatever deluge was in store for later.  Up to now, I was very fortunate to experience good weather since entering California.

The first six miles were easy and then streets and highways will have to be negotiated all the way to the border ... passed Cardiff By The Sea, Solana Beach, Del Mar, a town with Danish influence, and Torrey Pines State Beach.  Then the highway began a long climb to La Jolla Mesa, an area with interesting geological formations.  Eventually SR21 becomes Torrey Pines Rd.  The route passes the University of California at San Diego, and Scrippts Institute's Stephen Birch Aquarium, then to La Jolla.  There are street signs to help bikers weave their way through the city.

There were a few sprinkles but I made it to HI-Pt. Loma Hostel before the rains came in the early evening.  The hostel here is close to the route, clean and well managed. It has a large screen TV and a fully equipped kitchen.  The airport is about four miles from the hostel. The Ocean Beach neighborhood with its many diners and dives is just a mile away ... all in all,  very good vibe here.

Distance (mi) = 19
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.9
Max Speed (mph) = 21.2
Time (h:m) = 2:10

Route:
Pacific Street, Coast Highway (SR21), Carlesbad, Leucadia, Encinitas, Cardiff, San Elijo State Beach Campground

Before leaving Oceanside, I rode to the harbor for breakfast at the Beach Break Cafe. The four egg Greek omelet, coffee, and fresh squeezed tangerine juice is just what I needed to get a jump start for a late departure to San Elijo State Beach campground. 

I finally got on the road out of town at 11:30 am.  Taking Pacific Street for several miles parallels Highway 1 and reconnects approaching Carlsbad.  The highway route to San Elijo is fairly easy with small hills, moderate to wide shoulders, and scenic vistas next to the Pacific.

In Leucadia, my attention was drawn to a small boutique bakery, the Foodie Amour, which professed to use all natural ingredients, no  preservatives.  I sampled several of their cookies and was smitten. The bakers had great recipes and knew their craft. 

After passing several beaches and the town of Encinitas, I arrived at my destination in mid-afternoon.   It was the same scenario -- a long campground sandwiched between the ocean on one side and Highway 1 and Amtrak on the other.  The sounds of the surf were superimposed with the highway traffic and an Amtrak train every hour.  This seemed to be a popular campground.  It was almost full.  I was the only biker camper this night   My campsite was exposed and  it was windy with dark clouds on the horizon.  Rain was in the forecast.   My plan is to leave early to arrive in San Diego before the foretasted rain starts. 

Across from the San Elijo State Beach Campground, after crossing Coast Highway, I discovered the excellent Cardiff Seaside Market grocery store and deli.  A Starbucks was located next door.

Distance (mi) = 25.0
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.8
Max Speed (mph) = 25.5
Time (h:m) = 2:25

Route:
Ave del Presidente, bike path, Old Coast Highway, San Onofre nuclear plant, San Onofre State Beach, Surf Beach, Camp Pendleton, Las Pulgas Rd., Stewart Mesa Rd., Harbor Dr., SR21, Oceanside.

I left camp early to minimize the traffic on the route.  Starting at Ave del Presidente, just outside the park, today's ride involved riding lightly traveled roads (old highway 1) and bike paths parallelling the ocean side of interstate I-5 ... including traversing several state parks.  The key is to continue heading South as the route alternates between bike paths, funky roads, state park parking lots.   Some bike paths look like they are closed but take them anyway ... although this can add to the confusion.  Be sure to pass the San Onofre nuclear power plant, the San Onofre State Park (a very long parking lot with RV spaces along it), and the Surf Beach Park.

Several miles South of San Onofre State State Park's entrance, you come to a dead end with a narrow tunnel crossing I-5 on the left.  Take the tunnel and pedal on ... you are now on Camp Pendleton terrain riding on a wide empty road (sometimes used for aircraft landing practice) with a bike lane.  Eventually, you will arrive in a small parking lot area with two options.   To the right is the entrance to interstate I-5 (shorter route, very noisy, most cars traveling at 70 mph).  To the left is another narrow tunnel which leads to the Camp Pendleton bypass of I-5 from here to Oceanside.   I chose this option.  After the tunnel, take the first right which takes you to the Las Pulgas Rd. gate.  Here you will have to show your picture ID to the marines and tell your reason for entering.  Once cleared, follow the main road (Las Pulgas Rd.) for less than a mile, then at Y in the road, take the right fork.  This is the Stewart Mesa Road which winds through several training and living areas, eventually ending at Harbor Drive.  You cannot divert from the right side of the road, go exploring, and must wear a helmet, among other rules. 

The route takes the rider past a big complex called the Camp Los Flores Area 41 and some smaller installations.  The base's diverse geography, spanning over 125,000 acres is used for year-round training for marines in addition to all other branches of the U.S. military. Amphibious and sea-to-shore training takes place at several key points along the base's 17 miles of coastline. The main base is in the Mainside Complex, at the southeastern end of the base, and the remote northern interior is an impact area. Daytime population is around 100,000.

The birth of  Pendleton came in February 1942 when the 123,000-acre Rancho Santa Margarita y Los Flores was transformed into the largest Marine Corps base in the country. It was named for Major General Joseph Henry Pendleton who had long advocated the establishment of a West Coast training base.  During the Korean War, $20 million helped expand and upgrade existing facilities.   When Camp Pendleton trained the country's fighting force for the Korean and Vietnam Wars, approximately 200,000 Marines passed through the base on their way to the Far East.  Wartime training facilities at the base included landing craft school, amphibious tractor school, beach battalion school, amphibious communications school, and a medical field service school at the naval hospital at Santa Margarita Ranch.

Pendleton remains the last major undeveloped portion of the California coastline south of Santa Barbara, save for a few relatively small state parks.

Upon reaching Harbor Drive, head right and carefully negotiate heavy and fast-moving traffic in order to cross under I-5 towards Oceanside. After crossing under the freeway, turn left at the marked SR21 road (highway 1) to head into Oceanside, a city heavily oriented to catering to the military crowd.  I booked a room at Motel 6 after checking out a local RV park with a few tent sites right next to the Amtrak railroad tracks and garbage bins.  The motel recommended the Beachbreak restaurant at the nearby harbor for breakfast. 

Distance (mi) = 24.0
Ave Speed (mph) = 9.0
Max Speed (mph) = 22.0
Time (h:m) = 2:50

Route:
PCH, Dana Point, San Clemente, San Clemente State Park

From Laguna Beach, my next destination was San Clemente State Park.  

The route follows Highway 1, or the PCH as it is called here.  The cycling was relatively easy with gentle rolling hills.  Traffic varies from busy thoroughfares to quiet residential streets.  Shoulders can be non-existent to blocked by cars used for beach parking.

I stopped in Dana Point to visit the harbor.  I had a lunch at Joe's Fish Market.  The smoked salmon and cole slaw was very good.  It was an authentic dive, fresh seafood and good prices.

As I rode further South, I came to realize that the coastal towns can become a blur.  The streets are typically lined with restaurants, surf shops, bike rentals, fast food places, motels, and tourist oriented stores.

I was also riding through history.  In 1769, Catholic priest, Junipero Serra, arrived in these parts to set up a chain of missions along the 650-mile El Camino Real.  Commissioned by Spain's King Charles III, the padre went about to set up self-sustaining mission communities along the coast ... converting the locals to join the church was part of the task.

San Clemente State Park was a last minute choice after locals convinced me that it was a better park than San Onofre State Park, about five miles further South.  The decision was fortuitous as I learned the next day that San Onofre was closed.  The beach oriented San Clemente State Park was about 30 percent filled.  The hiker-biker sites were closed several years ago due to transient problems.  Since the weather was quite warm, it was the first time on the tour that I did not use the tent fly.

Distance (mi) = 26.3
Ave Speed (mph) = 9.1
Max Speed (mph) = 26.3
Time (h:m) = 2:51

Route:
Huntington Beach Bike Path, Newport Beach Bike Path, PCH (Highway 1), Newport Beach, Corona Del Mar, Laguna Beach

At 11:00 am, I took the bike path and walkway which runs between the North side of Huntington Beach and the Newport Beach pier, a distance of about nine miles. 

At 4:30 pm, I found a sports bar in Corona Del Mar to watch Notre Dame play Arizona State University.  The plan was to leave for the Crystal Cove campground  which was only three miles away at 6:30 pm, sunset time.  There are three entrances to the Crystal Cove State Park from the PCH.  I missed the third entrance because it was not marked.  It was getting dark fast and I decided to push on to Laguna Beach, a few miles away to stay at a no-tell motel.  Night fell quicker than I expected, so I had to ride the PCH for a while in the dark with both of my rear flashers on, but it was still nerve wracking with cars zooming by in the dark.

I took a room at the very old, tired, and dumpy Crescent Bay Inn on the North edge of Laguna Beach.  It was fit for cockroaches and rodents ... beautiful Crescent Beach was a short walk from the motel.  The silver lining was that I could finish watching the ND game.  It was a close game with ND eventually winning by three points.

Distance (mi) = 27.4
Ave Speed (mph) = 9.3
Max Speed (mph) = 23.0
Time (h:m) = 2:54

Route:
Torrance Blvd., Carson St., 223rd St., Long Beach Bike Path, Shoreline Village Bike Path, Seal Beach,  Sunset Beach, Huntington Beach

I began my journey through LA at 11:00 am after main commute traffic has died down.  Above all, I would not recommend taking PCH (Highway 1) because of fast and high traffic on mostly shoulderless roadway.  Although it is a more direct, shorter route, it is riskier.

The temperatures in the LA area have been about 10 to 15 degrees above normal.  High winds with strong gusts were forcasted for the next few  days.

The route plan above shows a reasonable route through metropolitan LA.  There are traffic lights to contend with but the roads have shoulders or bike lanes and the traffic is less. There is also a bike path (Long Beach Bike Path) that runs along an aquaduct and the Los Angeles River. The PCH is rejoined at Seal Beach.

I booked a room at the Travelodge by Sunset Beach for the night on the North side of Huntington Beach.

Distance (mi) = 17.6
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.0
Max Speed (mph) = 14.1
Time (h:m) = 2:15

Route:
Los Angeles Bike Path, Venice Beach, Washington Street, Marina Del Rey Bike Path, Fiji Way, Hermosa Beach Blvd., PCH, Redondo Beach

Today, I continue to weave my way through the greater LA area.   Fortunately, it will be mostly on bike paths with some busy street riding.  At 11:30 am, I made my way back from the hostel to the LA Bike Path that follows the beach with close proximity to the water.  The bike path route covers several big and wide expansive beaches (Topanga, Venice, Manhattan, Hermosa, Redondo). 

The beaches were empty everywhere with nary a sun bather in sight ... dozens upon dozens of beach volleyball nets sitting unused.  There was a small number of professional beach bums catching some rays.  Venice Beach strollers were out on the promenade taking in the sights of the strange and bizarre.  The outdoor muscle gym was empty.  The Freak Show attraction was not getting many takers.  Street performers, musicians mainly, were crooning their sad tales.  Artists were sitting around waiting for a sale. 

The route continued past the beaches, houses along the waterfront, and winds around the huge Los Angeles Department of Power and Water complex.  Eventually, the path turns to the Marina Del Rey Bike Path.  This takes you around the West Coast's largest marina complex and a bridge which crosses the entrance channel. 

The bike path ends and the route moves to the busy Hermosa Beach Blvd.  It is here where I was entangled with a car.   I was riding on the shoulder when an SUV drove by and suddenly started turning right onto a driveway in front of me.   A combination of me stopping while turning away from the vehicle and the driver finally seeing me prevented an incident.  I resolved to drive very defensively in the  "The Angels" city.

I booked a room at the Moonlite Motel on the South side of Redondo Beach.  The next day will be challenging.  I will be traversing through the heart of LA's asphalt jungle.

Distance (mi) = 30.0
Ave Speed (mph) = 10.0
Max Speed (mph) = 22.0
Time (h:m) = 3:00

Route:
Highway 1 S (PHC), Zuma Beach, Malibu, Toppanga State Beach, Will Rogers State Beach, bike path, HI-Santa Monica Hostel

I had an early start from the Leo Carrillo campground.  Leaving at 7:30 am, gave me an hour of riding with light traffic on Highway 1 S.  Within a mile, I entered a 27 mile stretch which is known as Malibu, a city of only 15,000.  I passed by Zuma Beach, a very long strip of sand, between the ocean and the Pacific Coast Highway (PCH), as Highway 1 is called here.  One item to note is that all beaches  require a fee tor parking, such as Zuma Beach which charges $8.00.  Many avoid paying by parking on the PCH shoulder ... making it dicier for bikers.  PHC is very busy but has moderate to wide shoulders.  Riding through the long city of Malibu involves dealing with four short hills.  The scenery is superb with houses on the cliff and mansions on the Pacific Ocean side.  Often, the ocean almost laps at your feet while riding the Malibu stretch of the PCH.

About eight miles South of Leo Carrillo, I stopped at the Point Dume Village at Heathercliff Rd. for coffee and breakfast.  I had the coffee, a Cafe Au Lait, at the Cafecito Organico.  This espresso place has unique features, such as options for sweetening with cane syrup or organic agave syrup, nice cushioned lounge chairs outside, and a more unconventional roster of drinks. Using self-sourced beans, Cafecito Organico aims to provide caffeine addicts with what they call an artisan coffee experience.

Directly across from Cafecito, is Lily's Cafe and Pastries where I enjoyed the best breakfast burrito ever ...eggs not overcooked, crispy bacon, cheese, nice refried beans, plus more, with their home made spicy salsa.  This small food joint's fare is very moderately priced and it is where the locals go -- for over 20 years.  Nothing fancy in decor, food made with love in the back room.  There are a few quirks.  For example, if you want water, you have to bring your own cup.

I spent the night at the very centrally-located HI Santa Monica Hostel.  This place was very well run and a pleasant experience.

Distance (mi) = 24.5
Ave Speed (mph) = 9.8
Max Speed (mph) = 21.4
Time (h:m) = 2:30

Route:
Channel Islands Blvd., Ventura Blvd., Sufside, Port Hueneme Rd., Highway 1 S, Leo Carrillo State Park

I left Hampton Inn at 11:30 am after a leisurely in-house breakfast on the way to Leo Carrillo State Park.   At midnight the USA government shut down so I cannot complain too much.  The room was luxurious and spacious.  I got a good night's rest.

The ride on this day was a short 23 mile ride.   I started on Channel Island Blvd. And eventually turned right on Ventura Blvd.  This turned into Surfside and after a while turned right on Port Hueneme Rd.  I basically followed it until it reconnected with Highway 1 S about 12 miles from Oxnard.  I went past Port Hueneme's and Point Mogu's air and navy military installations.  The roads had moderate shoulders with light traffic so it was no problem.

Highway 1 hugged the beach and the ocean was very benign.  The route was essentially flat with a few small hills.  Shoulders were moderate or wide to keep some separation from the light traffic.  A few miles before my destination, I stopped for lunch at the Neptune's Net, a seafood market and eatery, the only place to have a bite in the area. 

This fairly easy ride ended on the outskirts of Los Angeles.  The scenery included a mix of Spanish architecture, palm trees, surfing beaches, a national park, and the historic Buenaventura Mission.  There is a duality to this area.  Beautiful sand covered beaches with views of offshore oil rigs and the Channel Islands.  A wilderness peninsula is located at the sprawling edge of the megalopolis which is Los Angeles.

Distance (mi) = 44.0
Ave Speed (mph) = 9.3
Max Speed (mph) = 21.9
Time (h:m) = 4:41

Route:
Cabrillo Blvd., Summerland, Old Coast Village Rd., Jameson Way, Barry Spiegel Bike Path, Sheffield Dr., Via Real, Carpinteria Ave., Carpinteria, Highway 1 S, Highway 101 S, Highway 1 S, Thomson Blvd., Ventura, Harbor Blvd., Oxnard
I left the hostel at 9:30 am on the way to Oxnard.   First, I did a quick tour of Stearns Wharf.   Many yachts were moored or anchored in the bay.  A nice scenic bike path lined with palm trees paralleled Cabrillo Blvd. on the way out of town. Passed the zoo on the left and the beach on the right was populated with beach volleyball activities.  After Cabrillo Blvd., I continued on Old Coast Village Rd., passing the little village of Old Coast Village.  The route continues on Jameson Lane and the Barry Spiegel Bike Path.  Jameson Lane becomes Sheffield Drive.  I rode to Via Real and later crossed the freeway to continue on Carpinteria Avenue which paralled Highway 1 S for many miles.  When Carpinteria ended, I had to jump on Highway 101 for less than a mile.  An exit at Seacliff took me on Highway 1 S toward Ventura.

Most vehicle traffic moves on freeway 101 so Highway 1 becomes a good alternative with relatively low volume of traffic and moderate to wide shoulders.   The highway is also part of the Rincon  Annex Parkway where RVs can park and dry camp overnight for $28/day ... almost on the beach with fantastic views (South of Carpinteria before Dulah).  The Emma Wood State Beach is on the South end of this parkway.  A miles long bike path along the ocean starts right after this beach.

Spencer Makenzie's Fish House is a popular seafood dive in Ventura on Thomson Blvd.   I had their very tasty and fresh Giant Fish Taco for lunch (voted best fish taco).  They have their own hot sauces.  This is a recommended stop.

On the way, I turned right on Seaward toward Piedpont. At the intersection with Piedpont, there is an interesting Seaward Village with several authentic looking restaurants.

I continued on Harbor Blvd. to the Mcgrath Campground in Oxnard.  But alas, it was closed.  I continued on for several more miles to Oxnard's Channel Islands  Harbor.  I ended up booking a room at the Hampton Inn in the marina area at the last minute.

Tomorrow will be a short ride day to the Leo Carillo State Park.  The park was named after Leo Carrillo (1880-1961), actor, preservationist and conservationist. Carrillo served on the California Beach and Parks commission for 18 years, and was instrumental in the state's acquisition of the Hearst property at San Simeon.  Leo's greatest fame came from his portrayal of Pancho, the sidekick to Duncan Renaldo's Cisco Kid, an early 1950's TV series. 

Distance (mi) = 55.0
Ave Speed (mph) = 10.4
Max Speed (mph) = 24.8
Time (h:m) = 4:70

Route:
Highway 1 S, Gaviota, Goleta, Hollister Ave., Modoc Ave., Santa Barbara Tourist Hostel

I left Motel 6 at 8:45 am on the way to the coast but first I had to climb 900 feet over the course of 13 miles.  The place I stayed at , Motel 6, was conveniently located across the street from a shopping center with two grocery stores and Starbucks.  In addition to Starbucks, there is a small espresso joint in mid-town called Coffee Tyme.

As I was winding my way out of town, a SpaceX private rocket was launched from Vandenberg Air Force Base at 9:00 am.  This was the first time I actually saw a rocket launch.   It rose above the horizon on Sunday morning with a deafening thunder and fire spewing out of its primary engine.   It was visible for about five seconds before disappearing into the heavens.

The rocket carried a Canadian satellite intended to track space weather.  Billed as a rest flight, the Falcon 9 rocket lifted off under clear skies, eventually reaching its intended orbit.  SpaceX launched an older model of Falcon 9 five times from Florida. This was the first time the Southern California-based private rocket maker flew the next-generation version with upgraded engines designed to improve performance and deliver heavier payloads. The rocket carried a satellite dubbed Cassiope, a project of the Canadian Space Agency and other partners. Once in orbit, scientists led by the University of Calgary hope to start powering up instruments after a checkout period, but the actual mission to track space weather won't begin until next month. Cassiope carries instruments to study space storms in the upper atmosphere and their potential effects on GPS navigation and radio communications.

The road to the somewhat remote Jalama Beach is seven miles South of Lompoc.  There is a long established store there, Jalama Beach Store and Grill, founded in the 1970s that sells a hamburger with a secret sauce that is famous in these parts.  People call it the "best hamburger on the West coast."  It was 28 miles off my route so I did not stop there but note it here for future reference. 

Finally after reaching the peak, there was a seven percent grade two mile run downhill to Gaviota Beach.  The highway merges with 101 as it approaches the coast.  The traffic is busy but the road shoulders are wide.  My legs felt unusually strong today ... not sure of the reason.

I stopped at El Capitan State Beach for a break before pushing on to Santa Barbara.  As I neared Goleta, bicycles had to exit the highway at Hollister Avenue.   Hollister winds through Goleta with its many stores, eateries, motels, and services.  About half way to Santa Barbara, the route switches to Modoc.  I stopped at at the El Mercado Real shopping center in Goleta to have a quick sushi lunch.   Later, I stopped at the Java Junction with great espresso and WiFi.  It is a very inviting place and recommended stop.

The Santa Barbara Tourist Hostel was across the street from the Amtrak station and two blocks from the beach.  The hostel seemed to be a holding area for college  students who were still searching for living accommodations for the semester. 

Distance (mi) = 41.1
Ave Speed (mph) = 10.2
Max Speed (mph) = 27.7
Time (h:m) = 4:00

Route:
Highway 1 S, Guadalupe, Orcutt, Highway 135, Lompoc

I left Oceano Dunes at 9:30 am after an oatmeal breakfast and giving the tent a chance to dry out.

Route 1 South turns into a terrain of wide open fields and mega farms as far as the eye can see.  Guadalupe is a farming-oriented town along the way, with a definite Mexican flair.    I stopped at Masatani's Market to buy a banana.  The owner, an 86 year old Japanese woman,  was recounting her ordeal with internment by the U.S. during WW2 with a customer.

After riding the mostly flat no shoulder miles, but very light traffic, I arrived in Orcutt.  I had lunch of fish tacos at the Pasion Mexican restaurant.  It was excellent and I would recommend this eatery next to an ice cream parlor.  Kay's Country Kitchen across the street also looked interesting but I did not eat there.

The destination for the day, Lompoc, is 15 miles from Orcutt, but requires traversing 600-foot and 1,000-foot hills.  I pulled into Motel 6 on the edge of town across from the Northside Shopping Center and Starbucks.  It is my outpost to watch Notre Dame play Oklahoma on Saturday.

Distance (mi) = 22.5
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.3
Max Speed (mph) = 21.4
Time (h:m) = 2:42

Route:
Higuera St., Highway 1 S, Pismo Beach, Oceano

I departed Hostel Obispo at 10:00 am headed toward Pismo Beach and Oceano.  The hostel was OK but the cleanliness was a weakness.  The dorm rooms were full of dust bunnies ... looks like  it has not been cleaned in eons.  Andrew and the other staff were helpful, though.   This hostel had an unusual practice of closing between 11:00 am and 4:30 pm for the staff to to its thing.   The place definitely needs a cleaning make-over.

I left town on the recommended bike route which is Higuera Street which eventually turns into Ontario after it crosses Highway 1.  Just before reaching Avilla Beach Drive, there is a road uphill to a Buddhist temple and a Bob Jones bike path to Avilla Beach several miles away.

At Avilla Beach Drive, I went off route to check out three attractions.   One is the Avilla Hot Springs which has a sulfuric hot springs, cabins, and massage services.  The place seemed to be undergoing renovations and will have tent camping in the future.   A block further down the road is the Avilla Valley Barn which was buzzing with activity.  Lots of cars in the parking lot.  It is a farmer's stand with fruits and vegetables, roasted corn is available, juices, pickled and locally canned items fill the shelves, ice cream is sold in an adjoining barn.   Further down is the more upscale Sycamore Mineral Springs Resort and Garden restaurant.

Afterwards, I took Shell Beach Road to Pismo Beach to pick up a General Delivery package at the central post office.  My mismatched flip-flop packed in Santa Cruz was reunited with the correct mate.

The destination for the day was Oceano Dunes RV Park which has two biker tent sites.  The park was tightly sandwiched between Highway 1 and Amtrak's railroad track  ... making for interesting sound effects throughout the night.    Later, two brothers, Adam and Todd, joined me at my tent site because the other one was in a remote spot.   They were both riding Surly Long Haul Truckers ( LHTs) on the way to the Mexican border from San Francisco.  Across from the park, Old Juan's Mexican restaurant offers food, drinks and a sports bar.

Distance (mi) = 38.2
Ave Speed (mph) = 11.8
Max Speed (mph) = 33.6
Time (h:m) = 3:20

Route:
Highway 1 S, Cayucos, Morro Bay, Hostel Obispo, San Luis Obispo

I left San Simeon State Park at 8:30 am on the way to San Luis Obispo.  It will be a hot day, blue skies, no wind in the morning.  I diverted off Highway 1 S for about three miles at Sea Pines Resort to follow a scenic route along the ocean.  The alternate route is called Moonstone Beach Drive  At the point where I was about to rejoin the highway, I came upon an interesting boutique hotel, El Colibri Hotel and Spa.  See my picture with the colibri ladies.  This hotel is worth a further look.

After reuniting with Highway 1 S, there is a bike route which parallels the highway for about a mile.  The next town along the way was Cayucos.   The only good espresso place in town is the Top Dog in the center of town on the Highway 1 business route.  I spent over an hour here as they have very good WiFi.  This a recommended stop. 

Cayucos sits quietly between the Pacific Ocean and the rolling hillsides of open ranch land and is what some people call "the last of the California beach towns."  The city has quiet charm with low pollution, no noise, and little traffic ... the perfect  remedy for those who suffer from the ills and frustrations of life in the fast lane in our crowded cities.

I continued on to the nearby city of Morro Bay, a slight diversion off the route but I wanted to visit the harbor district.  It was blowing 25 knots in the bay filled with moored fishing boats and yachts.  Some vessels were docked in heir berth.  I had a fish burger at on of the local eateries, The Great American Fish Company.

The wind was building as the afternoon progressed.  The 25-knot Northwesterly was coming from the starboard quarter giving me a strong boost along my route.  It was the fastest ring day averaging 12 mph and reaching top  speeds of 33 mph on downhills.  There was heavy traffic but the shoulder was wide.

I arrived at Hostel Obispo at 3:00 pm.  Vaughn, also staying there, gave me the scoop on a nearby mini-mart, a coffeehouse, a Vietnamese restaurant , and a Thai restaurant.

Distance (mi) = 38.7
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.8
Max Speed (mph) = 33.9
Time (h:m) = 4:20

Route:
Highway 1 S, Pacific Valley, Gorda, Ragged Point, San Simeon, San Simeon State Beach

I had an early start out of Kirk Creek at 7:30 am ... no cars on the road.

The first opportunity for breakfast was in Gorda, another one building town.  Gorda, which was named after the mountains in the area, means "big or fat" in Spanish.  The Whale Watcher's Inn is the main attraction lodging overlooking the Pacific.  There is also an attached restaurant, espresso bar, a general store, and a gas station.

After the breakfast the fun began.  I had to climb the Gorda Mountain which has two 1,100 foot ascents.  The day was hot and sunny.  I stripped down to my padded bike underwear, boxer style, and my yellow visibility vest, no jersey.  I pedaled and grunted up the mountain like a bear.  Used up all my water.   Fortunately, after the last peak, I reached Ragged Point, a small mecca with lodge, restaurant, a general store and superlative views.  I had an Anchor Steam there at the Ragged Point Inn and filled up my water bottles.

After finishing the downhill run from Ragged Point, the road becomes mostly flat and follows along the ocean and later among farm fields.  The traffic is busy but the shoulder becomes wide to moderate. 

I stopped to observe an elephant seal colony. the Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, about five miles before camp. They were hunted by fishermen almost to extinction because of the high quality of oil made from their blubber.  The colony at Piedras Blancas was saved and now numbers 17,000 strong.  The males grow to 5,000 pounds and16 feet long.  Live CAM at www.elephantseal.org

I rode through the small town of San Simeon before reaching  Hearst San Simeon State Park. 

Distance (mi) = 28.4
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.2
Max Speed (mph) = 27.5
Time (h:m) = 3:27

Route:
Highway 1 S, Lucia, Kirk Creek Campground

Left Big Sur State Park at 8:00 am and have to climb a big hill, the same one I climbed yesterday, to visit Nepenthe for lunch.  Half way up the hill on the right, the Big Sur Bakery and Restaurant has espresso, pastries, and chow but no WiFi.  Next to the bakery is the Taproom and a General Store which has WiFi but does not work all the time.

I saw my first bike touring toddler this morning.  The two year old was in a seat behind the dad.  Mother was pulling a trailer with another older child. Both bikes were laden with much gear.

The ocean is very calm today, no fog and sunny.  There is a lot of kelp in the water in the Big Sur area.

Lucia is a one building town and after the Lucia mountains. It has a restaurant, Lucia Lodge, with terrific views, a lodge, and a general store.  Stores and restaurants in the remote areas of Big Sur are relatively expensive, no cell signal exists, and in some areas satellite WiFi is available for a fee. 

I arrived at the Kirk Creek Campground in the late afternoon is operated by the Los Padres National Forest.  It is a dry camping area with no running water or showers.  The hiker-biker site is right next to the ocean and the setting was very serene and scenic.

Distance (mi) = 36.0
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.0
Max Speed (mph) = 27.5
Time (h:m) = 4:20

Route:
Highway 201 S, Carmel, Point Lobos State Reserve, Carmel Highlands, Big Sur, Big Sur State Park

Left J&D's Bed and Breakfast at 8:15 am heading to Big Sur country.  Destination for the night is Big Sur State Park, 33 miles away.  To jolt me out of my cushy stay J&D's, I started a 1.5 mile climb to Highway 101 S.  All sweated up, now ready to face my ride for the day.

Big Sur refers to a 90-mile stretch of rugged and beautiful coastline between Carmel and San Simeon.  Highway 1 winds along its length and is flanked on one side by the majestic Santa Lucia  Mountains and the other by the wild, pristine, and rocky Pacific coast.  The current highway was completed in 1937 after 18 years of convicts laboring on the project.  Electricity did not arrive until the 1950s and is still absent in some areas along the coast.  Clearly, only the hardiest of pioneers made their trek here.  Driving and bike touring can be a challenge due to narrow, twisting roads, rock slides and heavy fog in the summer.  Nevertheless, Big Sur has achieved a worldwide reputation for its wilderness beauty where land meets the sea.

The road in the Big Sur area has mostly small shoulders and sometimes no shoulder, especially around curves in the road.  I encountered heavy fog 11 miles South of Monterey and it stayed with me for another 10, varying from heavy to light.  I activated all three flashers on my bike.

There is Rocky Point Restaurant perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean 15 miles South of Monterey. 

The most dramatic bridge in Big Sur is the historic Bixby Bridge.  Today it was fogged in and I crossed it light traffic following the white line on the road's edge.  The 400 foot chasm below was veiled by the fog ... perhaps in this case ignorance is bliss.

About 20 miles South of Monterey, the Big Sur River Inn is a welcoming stop.  It has a restaurant in a nice serene setting, a grocery store/deli, espresso and WiFi.  Next to the inn is a private campground accommodating RVs and tents.

The small village of Ripplewood has cabins, a cafe, grocery store, and even a library.     A little further South is the Fernwood Motel advertised to have hot tubs.  The Fernwood Campground is next door.

At the 30 mile mark I entered the Big Sur State Park.   Before entering the camping area, I rode a further three miles to have lunch at Nepenthe.   This is a popular restaurant and drinking establishment famous for its dramatic ocean views, the Nepenthe Ambrosia Burger, and its French fries.  It is somewhat pricey but worth a visit due its uniqueness.  I ordered a shrimp bisque soup with a three bean salad.  Lynne, the woman sitting next me was returning from a workshop at Esalen and offered to let me sample her fries (served in monster portions).  To reach Nepenthe from the park, I had to endure a three mile climb ... but the return downhill run was was fun.

I set up camp at 4:30 pm at Big Sur State Park.  Mason and Georgie, young couple from London, was already there.  They started their tour San Francisco and will cover 7,000 miles on the way to Argentina over the next nine months.

For dinner I had a cashew, almond, and chocolate trek mix and coffee.  In the morning, I will have to re-do that three mile long climb.

I watched the Notre Dame game with Michigan State on the big screen at Jim and Debbie's house.

It was a game which lacked energy from both teams.   The ND quarterback was offvhis game.  ND managed a comeback and finally won the game on their home turf ... aided by six pass interference calls against Michigan State.

The next game with #14 Oklahoma will be a test for the team.   Coach Kelly better have a good talk with the team if the expect to win this game on the road.

Distance (mi) = 50.3
Ave Speed (mph) = 9.6
Max Speed (mph) = 24.1
Time (h:m) = 5:11

Route:
Soquel Ave., Capitola, Soquel, Aptos,San Andreas Road, Moss Landing, Highway 1 S, Del Monte Blvd., Marina, Seaside Bike Path, Monterey

I left Santa Cruz by 8:15 am in nice weather, ideal temperature, sunny skies, and with new energy on my way to Monterey, about 50 miles on my route.  To avoid Highway 1, use Soquel Ave which takes you through scenic villages of Soquel and Aptos.  There are many interesting eateries along this route.  In Aptos, the Cafe Sparrow offers tasty dishes for lunch and dinner in a quite setting.  The building was formerly occupied by a post office and grocery store. There is a Starbucks nearby for coffee and WiFi.

A worthwhile deviation on the route is a quick visit to Capitola-by-the-Sea which both picturesque, has a nice beach and has a variety of shops and restaurants.  Nearby the village, be sure to stop at Gayle's Bakery and Roticceria, a Capitola fixture of tasty deli and pastry items ... great for breakfast and lunch.  In the village, visit Mr. Toots Coffeehouse get a terrific view of the bay from the large sliding door glass windows and to get the feeling that you are in a small European seaside village.

After Soquel Ave., cross the highway to continue the route on San Andreas Road.  The scenery changes from villages to the wide open farmlands surrounding Watsonville.  This is a major vegetable and strawberry growing area.  The roads winds around and eventually gets back to Highway 1 S to Moss Landing.  The best stop in Moss Landing is The Whole Enchilada on the Southern edge of town.  Here you will find a deli, gourmet grocery items, farm produce and fruit stands, and the Surf City espresso coffeehouse with good WiFi.  There are a few restaurants in the village of 800 and a small fishing and yacht harbor.

From Marina, a good bike path which which parallels Highway 1 S all the way Seaside and Monterey.  If one needs to replace camping or bike gear there is an REI store about two miles south of Marina on Imjim Parkway.  It can be reached from the bike trail.  When the bike trail reaches the top of a hill, look to the left and you will see a big shopping center. There is an exit opening on the bike path, take it to the left and the REI will be the first among many big stores.

My lodging in Monterey for two nights was at the historic J&D Bread and Breakfast, thanks to Jim and Debra for hosting me. After my arrival at 6:30 pm, I enjoyed my first martini since the start of the trip and it is likely to be the last while finishing my journey.  We had a nice chicken salad dinner with great seed bread and wine and all was well ... the inn has very comfortable beds (lots of pillows), big screen TV for watching Notre Dame games, a Jacuzzi tub and excellent WiFi.