Had breakfast at the High Tide Cafe before the Notre Dame with Temple.  Then, I settled in at Miller's at the Cove Sports Bar and Grill to watch the game in Charleston, a short 3-mile ride from camp.  The clientele at Miller's seems to be fishing boat captains, very salty looking crew, and a motley third group which includes tourists and locals.

There was a good omen about the game at camp.  My tent neighbors were Jude and Val, retirees from Iowa who took a train to Seattle to start their tour there.  Jude grew up in South Bend and graduated from Notre Dame.  Like Clark Kent in Superman, Val, Jude's husband, stripped off his jacket to reveal a Notre Dame T-shirt and Jude showed off her ND paraphernalia.  Am I living in a parallel universe?

Before the game started, I noticed that Debbie had emailed me a gorgeous picture of the avocado dip she made for the usual gathering of dedicated ND Irish fans...minus me and myself.  At the bar, I had fish tacos and a cup of the home made chili made by Miller's cook.  Both were very good ... recommend a stop here.  

Charleston is a small commercial fishing village (tuna, salmon, Dungeness crabbing) with some tourism in the summer.  Looked like there were about 60 fishing boats berthed in the harbor.  The boats cross the Coos River bar and go out 50 to 100 miles in the ocean to fish.

I will have to take 14 miles of Seven Devils Road out of camp on Sept. 1 to reconnect with 101.  More devils to contend with.  In my mind, I have renamed the twisty road to Seven Virgins Road.

Distance (mi) = 55
Ave Speed (mph) = 10.5
Max Speed (mph) = 25.7
Time (h:m) = 6:00

Route:
101 S, Gardiner, Reedsport, Winchester Bay, North Bend, Cape Avago Highway, Charleston, Sunset Bay State Park.

Woke up to a soggy campsite, but, lo and behold, the clouds parted and blue skies were a welcome sight after four days of bad weather.  Around the camp area, I noticed six new types of mushrooms which I have never seen before.  At least there was one life form that cheered the abundant rainfall.  The official Oregon state mushroom is the Pacific golden chanterrelle.  For some reason, I am becoming more interested in mushrooms.  Some varieties, like turkey tail, is used in alternative medicine to wake up and energize the immune system to fight cancers. The mushroom is also thought to de-cloak the cancer cells allowing the immune system to go at them with vengeance.

Crossed the Umpqua River over a drawbridge.  Traffic was fairly light,  good shoulders, life is good ...if it weren't for my wet bike shoes which refuse to dry from the previous day's soaking.

At Reedsport after a 20 mile ride, I stopped at the Jitterbug N Java Cafe for a bite.  When I walked in, there was less than dozen people present, but a duo was singing and a dance lesson was in progress.  Debbie and Jody were playing guitar and piano, and singing folk songs of the 60s.  A couple was on the dance floor learning line dancing.  Espresso, food, WiFi, music, dancing, memorabilia, gift shop, manikins in evening dress, buy-sell-barter, comics and cards....owner, Darlene, runs a diverse jitterbug emporium.

As I arrived near North Bend, I crossed Haynes Inlet and the very long McCullogh  drawbridge into the city.  At this juncture, I diverted and found my way to Cape Arago Highway.  The 14-mile bike route bypassed Coos Bay, routed via Charleston, and Sunset Bay State Park.

On the way to the Camp, I stopped at Miller's at the Cove Sports Bar and Grill to check out the situation for watching the Notre Dame football season opener with Temple University.  Scott, the owner,  said that all five TVs will be tuned to the Oregon Ducks game.  I was not very happy.  After some negotiations, he agreed to tune one station to the ND game.

It was 7:00 pm before I arrived at the camp.  New and familiar faces already set their tents.  The couple from Florida was there.  Jacob and Evie from Bellingham arrived, as did Brad from LA, later.  For dinner I had a Black Forest ham sandwich which I purchased earlier at Subway.

I am staying at the Sunset Bay State Park camp for two nights to accommodate watching the ND game.

Distance (mi) = 35.4
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.2
Max Speed (mph) = 19.8
Time (h:m) = 4:18

Route:
101 S, Yachats, Florence, Jesse M. Honeyman State Park

I reluctantly left the beach house, tearing myself away from mother ocean. The picture says it all...it is that kind of a day. Someone told me to get rain booties, but I ended up improvising with plastic grocery bags...sailors are very resourceful. Today is a day of rain squalls, with bouts of drizzling rain, spritzes from passing semis, and a teasing sun to get my hopes up just to be dashed in five minutes. The southeasterly headwinds are 15-20 knots in some areas depending on exposure to the ocean...I have to pedal going downhill! Where are the trade winds? Where is the typical northwesterly?

On I lumbered against wind and rain...climb up Cape Perpetua, past Devil's Churn tidepools.  Further south, the route passes Devil's Elbow State Park -- thinking that the Devil has a lot of attention in this area -- after a second killer climb, I made a stop at the much heralded and photographed Heceda Head Lighthouse.  Right afterwards, I went the historic Cape Creek Tunnel, the second and last tunnel of the coastal route.  It was no-shoulder, uphill grade, wet dripping from the ceiling, bats zipping around...or were they sea gulls.

A bit further is the peak of this climb and the site of a touristy sea lion attraction ... a elevator takes you down into a sea cave full of barking sea lions.  As I reached this peak, I encountered the strongest winds and gusts thus far...I ducked into the sea lion gift shop to escape the wind and gather my wits.  A cheerful woman making and selling fresh popcorn engaged me in conversation.  "My ex-husband who is a doctor looked like he was going to have a stroke when he reached this spot."  She gave me a sample of the popcorn as if she was dispensing a magic potion to make my pain go away.

I continued on to Florence where I stopped in the port area at the Bridgeway Fish House restaurant for soup of the day (navy bean and bacon) and a calamari appetizer.  I noticed that this was a sand dunes region and riding dune buggies was a popular tourist attraction.

I arrived at the Jesse M. Honeyman State Park at 6:30 pm, set up the tent, and headed for a hot shower.  There were already four other tents up.  A young woman from Bellingham and friend were traveling south to San Francisco.  Two men were doing shorter rides from the Portland area.  Brad from Los Angeles already completed an inland route was working south along the coastal route back LA.  He commented about the wind, "This is the first time the wind lifted and straightened me out on the bike."  You will meet Brad in the documentary.

It was the most difficult day so far. The key mantras today were determination and SHEER WILLPOWER.

The skies cleared up with the sun attempting to break through the clouds.  I had the entire morning to explore Newport so I headed down to the historic port district.  

The port is home to the area's fishing fleet and several related fish processing companies, Trident being the most familiar to me.  The port is flanked by a dozen blocks of restaurants, tourist shops, cafes, candy stores, fishing charter companies, an Undersea Gardens attraction, a wax museum and Ripley's Believe It Or Not. 

I checked Yelp for highly rated restaurants in Newport and Local Ocean Seafoods restaurant was 4.5 stars and just happened to be located in the port's historic bayfront district.  I headed there for a seafood lunch.  It was not a fancy building and outdoor seating was available.  When I arrived at 11:30 am, it was already bustling with a lunch crowd.  I walked by the seafood retail purchase refrigerated counter on the way to my table which was just in front of the open air kitchen.  There are also a dozen bar stool style seats facing the kitchen.  There were half a dozen cooks and preppers orchestrating dishes being choreographed by an unseen conductor.  The menu covered the seafood and shellfish spectrum with a variety of small plates and entrees.  I opted for three small plates: a roasted garlic Dungeness crab soup (creamy clam base, fresh herbs, parmesan cheese), "Los Fish Taco" (grilled rock-fish, chili-garlic marinade, fennel slaw, avocado salsa verde, rice cake), and grilled oysters (three Panko-buttermilk crusted Yaquina Bay oysters with tartar sauce).  The presentation and preparation did not disappoint...confirming the high review marks.  The seafood was very fresh and is sourced from the fishermen across the street.  Local Ocean was opened six years ago. 

After lunch, I began my short 15 mile ride to Walport by crossing the Yaquina Bay Bridge just South of Newport, a shorter version of the Astoria bridge, high traffic and no shoulder.  The sky was cloudy and the air felt balmy.  The miles were relatively easy with small long rolling hills with moderate road shoulders.

I arrived the beach house just outside of Waldport in mid-afternoon.  I met Matt at the Hungry Bear Cafe in Washington where he gave me the keys to his family beach to use for rest and recuperation.  Later, he emailed me a tip take right on Bayshore Road by a small grocery store rather than follow my GPS.  I stopped at the Bay Mart to buy a few supplies and to use their WiFi.  The store was also marketed as an Internet cafe. There were two computers to rent by the hour.  Coincidentally, one of the desktops was a model I used to own seven years ago...well, speed isn't everything.  Shelby, the helpful store clerck, gave me specific directions to the beach house which was less than a mile from there.

After short downhill run and two turns, I arrived at the cabin with the red door.  It is smallish but very cozy green house on the beach side of the street.  There is a very large king sized bed (a sign on the wall warns of a six person limit).  There are also four bunk style single beds in a separate sleeping area with a small TV and a boombox stereo.  The open living room and dining area is highlighted by a self-standing stove and a flatscreen TV with cable.  The kitchen is basic with a fridge,  electric stove, microwave, toaster oven, toaster, blender, drip coffee maker and all the necessary cooking/eating paraphernalia needed.  The bathroom area includes a stacked washer/dryer combo and a powerful shower that could double as a vertical jacuzzi.   It is the strongest water pressure shower I have experienced in my life ... a heaven sent amenity for any touring bicyclist.

Just outside the back door, you walk along a sandy path, over small sand dunes, to an oceanic panorama that takes your breath away...the wild, untamed Pacific Ocean with pristine sand beach as far as the eye can see in either direction.  You can walk three miles North before the Seal Rocks stop you, or you can walk 1.5 miles South towards Waldport before the bay stops you.  I sat on the unspoiled vast expanse of the beach in total solitude listening to the thunder of the ocean surf fpr an hour. Later, I headed into town to check out sleepy Waldport, do some computer work at the library, and go to a local dive for an early dinner.

Distance (mi) = 28.9
Ave Speed (mph) = 7.7
Max Speed (mph) = 22.1
Time (h:m) = 3:44

Route:
101 S, Lincoln, Depoe Bay, Newport

Leaving Lincoln, Oregon, I stopped on the outskirts of town at the Pacific Grind.   Good espresso.  The WiFi password Was "thanksforthedollar" which I assumed was a no-so-subtle request for a buck for using the WiFi. 

A mile further I stopped at a local grocery store to get a banana and a Tillamook blueberry yogurt and sat down on the bench outside to eat it.  The 45 year old woman on a nearby bench was waiting for the employment office to open.  She said was listening to her police/emergency scanner last and heard that the police were called out to a domestic violence incident at Devil's Lake State Park.  I said that it is where I camped last and I did hear some screaming around midnight.   I said, "So, so you are a scanner junkie."  "No," she she said, "I pray for people who are in trouble when I hear it on the scanner.  Several days ago, an elderly woman pushed her help button and I prayed that the medics would save her."  She said her father abused her and she finally healed recently.  She quit drinking beer to numb herself and took up walking two miles daily to lose her beer belly.    I said, "Congratulations, you are in charge of your own behavior, you are your own person, live in the future, not the past."  I wasn't sure how she would react to my dispensing amateur psychology.  She threw up her fist and exclaimed, "Yeahhhh, be safe out there, I will pray for you."  I said thanks as I climbed on the Trek and rode away.

The road out of Lincoln had wide shoulders which became small and moderate.  Traffic was moderate.  There was a blustery storm brewing with increasing rain as the day progressed.  The Southerly headwinds were so strong that I had to pedal to go downhill.

At Whale Cove, I diverted off 101 for about six miles to follow the Otter Crest Loop which is essentially a one-way road with small bicycle shoulder.  There is a climb to endure but the effort is worth it.  It was the most scenic route on the route thus far...gorgeous.  Traffic is very light on this road.  The vistas from the bluff are spectacular.

By the time I arrived in Newport, the rain was getting gnarly and headwinds made for difficult progress so I decided to spend the night.

Significant Thought Of The Day:
"Don't do therapy, go on a long bike ride."

Distance (mi) = 39.5
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.5
Max Speed (mph) = 25.4
Time (h:m) = 4:38

Route:
131, Sandlake Rd., Pacific City, 101S, Neskowin, Lincoln, Devil's Lake State Park

Left camp at 8:00 am and continued on the "three capes road."  The Cape Lookout climb was the toughest to date, a sweat drenching two plus, mile climb.  After the downhill run, I turned right on Sandlake Rd. toward Pacific City.  The second climb, Cape Kiwanda, was kinder and gentler. 

I found my second brewery at Pacific City, The Pelican Pub and Brewery, but it was too early for sampling.  The small beach town is mainly a summer getaway with condos, time shares, and surfing.

On the way to Lincoln, Oregon, I had my third and very difficult climb today on 101 in the Cascade Head wildlife area.  I stopped twice to rest and drink water before I could enjoy the long downhill glide.  I noticed on these long runs that I could maintain control with the loaded Trek 520 up to 25 mph then things get a bit dicey.

I stopped at my third microbrewery,  McMenamins, and sampled their beers and had a hamburger with salad. Brothers Mike and Brian McMenamin opened their first location in Portland in the 1970s long before micro-brew movement started.  McMenamins has expanded to locations in Washington and Oregon with brew pubs, theater pubs and historic hotels, and even spas.

My tent neighbors at Devil's Lake State Park, John and Debbie, a couple in their 50s, began hitchhiking up and the Oregon coast on Dec 26, 2011 back and forth looking for a job and to settle down somewhere.  It is illegal to hitchhike in California and Washington.  John does welding and builds alternative houses.  They lost their house due to economic circumstances and all they own is a tent and some camping gear. They seem to like their itinerant lifestyle.  They hail from Grant's Pass, Oregon.

Distance (mi) = 40.5
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.8
Max Speed (mph) = 22.4
Time (h:m) = 4:35

Route:
101 S, Wheeler, Rockaway Beach, Garibaldi, Tillamook, 131, Camp Lookout

Left camp at 7:30 in the morning with overcast skies, land fog, and drizzle.  Went past the Nehalem Winery turn off and arrived in Wheeler looking for coffee and WiFi.  Stopped at the Wheeler Marina and asked the young fisherman finishing his smoke, "Does the cafe have WiFi?" He responded, "No, what do you need WiFi for?"  I did not know quite how to answer that.  He was incredulous about my bike trip, saying why would anyone want to do that.

A block further down 101 in this small town, I spotted the Old Wheeler Hotel with bottom floor housing The Roost Cafe, with a definite chicken/hen team.  It looked like a mother and two daughters operation but I was not sure.  The hotel with eight rooms was one hundred years old.  The cafe which offers espresso drinks and light food fare opened just a month ago.  I ordered a latte and a breakfast sandwich consisting of egg, sausage and Havarti cheese on a toasted English muffin ... both were  good.  I did some Internet work and wished the latest entrepreneurs of Wheeler success in their business. 

Kelly's Brighton Marina and RV Park, a few miles south of Wheeler, looked interesting and I pulled off 101 for a closer look.  It was immediately evident that this little marina is for people who love to  crab. 

The road South of Wheeler became rougher with small to moderate shoulders which were sometimes very bumpy.  Caution is advised.  Amtrak's rail line parallels 101 for many miles in this section of Oregon.

Further down 101, I stopped at Rockaway Beach, a small town of 1,000, to observe their annual arts and crafts festival and talked with some of the locals about my trip who showed interest.

At Garibaldi which was an active lumber town at one time, I diverted from 101 to check out the Port of Garibaldi which berthed many fishing boats and was home to several small canneries and fishing charter companies.  I had a quick clam chowder lunch at one of the port's eateries before hitting the road again.

When I arrived in Tillamook, I was going to visit the giant Tillamook cheese and dairy operation but the big tourist crowd gathered outside discouraged me from spending any time there. 

In the downtown area, I turned off from 101 to 131 which was billed as the 14 mile "three capes scenic road" to Camp Lookout State Park.  The traffic was light, mostly, but the road had no shoulders.  Before the biker can enjoy the promised scenery, there is a killer two-mile fairly steep uphill climb.  But what goes up, must come down.  The last miles to Camp Lookout were spectacular on a road that hugs the bay with beautiful vistas of the trees and mountains in the background.

On the way, I stopped to check out at the small Cape Lookout Bed and Breakfast which has been in operation for three years.  The proprietors, Jim and Katie Angerman, operate their B&B on a two-acre spread on Whiskey Creek Road about three miles from Camp Lookout. Two rooms are available to guests with breakfast included in very pleasant and serene surroundings.  Jim gave me a quick tour of the grounds.  Although I did not stay there, it is worth a look for a romantic getaway near various ocean attractions.

Finally arrived at Camp Lookout and after checking in was directed to the biker camping area.  Six of the tent sites were occupied by singles and couples.  The Pacific ocean surf was thundering just beyond the bushes. The camp is popular with bikers coming from Portland for a weekend trip. 

Distance (mi) = 59,4
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.8
Max Speed (mph) = 24.7
Time (h:m) = 6:43

Route: 101 S, Seaside, Canon Beach, Nehalem State Park

Left Astotia in a cold drizzling rain and stopped on the way out of town at Three Cups Coffeehouse.  The Astoria-Warrengton corridor is very busy and involves crossing Young Bay on a bridge which is one mile long with a small shoulder.  I noticed that there were many forts around Astoria and the Columbia River which flows into the Pacific Ocean.   It was an important and strategic military base.

The road to Canon Beach was very busy with traffic but had four lanes and a wide shoulder, so it was tolerable.  At the turnoff to Sunset Beach, the Oregon DOT noted that it was a bike route so I took it thinking it was a scenic bypass of 101 for several miles..  After a mile, I ended up by Sunset Lake and a small Indian village with a bakery and a very run-down RV park.  I stopped at the bakery to get what looked like a type of brownie I never had before.  There were two tables of ladies in their late senior years having some kind of gathering ... they were too primpy to be tourists.  The 50s something Indian man with long grayish hair tied in a pony tail looked up from his reading material at the pay counter and announced the price was $1.50.   I handed him a $20 and from his body language noticed he was annoyed that he had to make some change.  Grudgingly, he pulled out a big wad of $1s from his pocket, did some fast maneuvers shifting money from the cash register back to his pocket and finally produced my change.  His sleight of hand was remarkable, and for a second I thought my $20 bill had disappeared.  On the way out the door of the bakery, the Indian yelled, "If you follow the Oregon Bike route,  you will end up in the sand.  You need to turn back the way you came and get on 101"  I thought he might be trying to send me back because I didn't have change.  I double checked at the RV park and they confirmed that I should go back to 101.   Someday, I may try to find out why Oregon DOT was misleading bike riders.

I heard that an internationally renown running relay was going to bring thousands of riders to finish at Seaside...so I was glad to pass through a day before they arrive.  At Seaside, I started to buck strong headwinds, dark gray skies, light rain, cold ... but at least no deluge. About three miles from Canon Beach, a very strenuous long upgrade began which had me completely drenched in warm sweat on the inside...and soaked on the outside from the cold rain.  Ohhhh, isn't touring fun?  No one promised me a rose garden.  Then finally a steep descent into Canon Beach ... The cold wind generated by the 25 mph downhill run turned my sweat into a refrigeration system.  Are we having fun yet?  I am sure there will be sunny days ahead.

At Canon Beach I stopped at the Driftwood Restaurant to have some clam chowder.  This was based on local knowledge and it turned out to be accurate -- it was delicious.  At a whim on the way out of town, at the Sleepy Monks Coffee house and roasters, I stopped for an organic latte.  Their espresso machine broke down but the proprietor felt sorry for me and handed me a dark roast drip coffee.

The ride from Canon Beach to Nehalem State Park can only be described as arduous .... very difficult, the sweat poured on the inside but determination kept me pumping slowly up the long hills.  I stopped in the rain to gawk at the spectacular scenery. I arrived at Nehalem at 6:30 pm which is fairly late.  The camp was full, but bikers and hikers have their special site and are never turned away.   The park attendant sent me in the woods, deep woods ... I expected to see Robin Hood pop out any minute, the way the trees were growing.  There was a merry band of five bikers already set up with tents when I arrived.   

The park community room was in party mode as a groom was having a dinner in advance of his marriage the next day.  The regular campers were all in a festive mood in spite of the weather and there were kids everywhere.

I could immediately tell that Oregon manages their parks better than Washington.   The facilities are nicer and cleaner.  The showers work and don't require quarters or tokens.  They even offer to charge your electronics when you check in.

After a very long hot shower, I called it a day.

Developing...

I covered 480 miles riding the roads of Washington -- slightly more than planned.  There were 14 riding days and three days were spent gunk holing.

Traversing the Olympic Peninsula makes minced meat out of your muscles unless one is in Olympic shape.  I was not.   The plan was to train along the way.  The muscles in my legs strengthened along the way.  My knees which tended to buckle after each day's ride initially, survived, and became stronger after about 10 days.  After sitting on the bike seat about five hours each day, the pain started to subside after riding a few days.  A few rashes in places but we won't talk about that.

The Trek needed a bit of attention.  I replaced the chain from the original equipment when I bought the bike in 2,000 and replaced a lost bolt holding the rear rack to the bike.

The Big Agnes Copper Spur ultra-light tent worked very well. It is advertised as a three-person tent but it feels more like a two person tent  ... think sardines in a can for a three person fit.  Even with two, most of the gear has to stay on the panniers.  The Mont-bell ultra-light goose down sleeping bag kept me warm at night.

I estimated that I typically burn about 400 calories an hour on the average while riding...or approximately 1,500 to 2,000 calories per day.  A side benefit of the tour is that I will shed some pounds and improve my fitness level.  I will weigh myself twice: once in Santa Cruz, California and once when the tour is completed.

I am a seafood person and riding through Coastal Washington villages, made you aware that you are in clam chowder, fish and chips, and salmon country.  The local dives and diners  proclaim "World's Best Clam Chowder," World's Best Fish & Chips," "The Oyster Capital of the World."

A final note on Washington is that, even in August, the weather was colder than I anticipated, especially along the coast where the Pacific Ocean has a cooling effect.  In the colder mornings, I started with three layers (excluding my yellow visibility vest) and shed one or two layers depending on weather conditions.   Still have to sort out the bike shoes to keep them from getting soaked from the rain and the ground splash.   The other alternative is to find quick-drying shoes.

After consulting local cyclists, viewing the high wind forecasts, finding out about construction on the bridge and getting a reading from a gypsy fortune teller, I and Myself made the executive decision to take a bus across the bridge ... the busy four mile Astoria-Megler Bridge connecting Washington and Oregon.

If you must experience the 30-minute white knuckle ride across it, be aware that there are NO shoulders, is windy to very windy, and the traffic zips by at 60 mph.  I would recommend to do it as early as possible in the morning and pray that drivers aren't texting that early.  Turn on all your rear flashers, close your eyes, hold your breath, and ride like hell ... straight and true as there are about four inches on the left side to avoid cars/buses and four inches on the right to avoid the cement bridge abutment.  The scenery is fantastic but don't stop to take pictures.

The insurance costs 50 cents, i.e., a bus ride across.  If you opt for the bus (recommended), plan to arrive in the Ilwaco/Long Beach area in the evening.  In the morning, ride to the Port of Ilwaco bus stop so that you arrive by at least 9:00 am.
The Pacific Transit Systems bus #24 arrives at 9:30 am (check schedules for any changes).  The bus is equipped with two front-loading bike carriers, but the driver may allow a third bike in the coach if there aren't many passengers.  If you miss this bus, the next one is not until mid afternoon.  The ride is 14 miles and costs 50 cents.  It is the cheapest life insurance you will ever buy.  Enjoy the view.

Get off the bus at the first stop after the bridge on Marine Drive next to a smoke shop.   The next bus stop is the main terminal in the downtown area.  Ride one block East on Marine Drive and you will arrive at the Three Cups Coffee House/Columbia River Coffee Roasters located almost under the bridge.  Excellent espresso drinks, latte art, grub, pastries, and fast WiFi await you.  If you rode across the bridge, you will need a strong adult beverage at a hardcore bar that is open in the morning.

Seven blocks further East on Marine Drive is the Bikes and Beyond shop, in case you bike needs attention.  At this juncture, you are on the main Highway 101 which will take you South along the Oregon coast.   I opted to stay for two days to explore this interesting Columbia River bar city.

Continue East on Marine Drive until 14th St. and take a right until Exchange Street to find the Norblad Hotel and Hostel (formerly the Hideaway Inn and Hostel).  The hotel/hostel has been renovated a year ago with 15 completed rooms.  One of the owners, Paul Caruana, said the property will eventually have 16 additional rooms which will be rented on a monthly basis for about $485/month.  A hostel style dorm room is also in the works.

The rooms are basic with good Euro style furnishings and fixtures: queen bed, small table, wash basin/mirror, a flat panel TV mounted on the wall with a swiveling bracket and closet.  Plenty of towels are provided.  There is a community kitchen.  The bathrooms and shower rooms (fully tiled) are shared but were very clean.  I recommend this hotel/hostel because the rooms are clean, reasonably priced ($59 for a basic room) and it is conveniently located in downtown.  The Astoria food co-op is behind the hotel and the Fort  George microbrewery and restaurant is across the street.  Cafes and eateries are within easy walking distance, as is the popular Astoria Riverwalk and Liberty Theater.

I ran across my first microbrewery, the Fort George Brewery and Public House. Tasted several brews in their Tap Room: the Divinity, Cavatica Stout and Working Girl Porter (who makes up these names?). More on this brewery in a separate post.

Today, I rode six miles to the Long Beach to visit the International Kite Festival.  On the way, also visited Ilwaco, a quiet town with a port for both commercial fisherman and pleasure yachts.  The port is the highlight of the town.

Iwalko's history is connected to the sea when a 1000 years ago, the Chinook Indians plied these waters in their cedar canoes.  Today. About 25 charter boats run fishing trips and at least five operations do canning, smoking or preserving fish.The Ilwaco Port also has a sprinkling restaurants scattered along several blocks of waterfront.  I ate lunch at one of these, the Imperial Schooner.   The fish and chips I ordered was very fresh and well prepared.

Long Beach claims to have the longest beach in the world but I am not sure about that ... perhaps in the US.  The downtown strip which parallels and offers access to the 28 mile beach is very touristy and has a carnival atmosphere.  You will find attractions like kiddie rides,  tattoo parlors, ice cream shops, and a myriad of other stores that cater to the throngs of summer visitors each year.

Due to the predictable winds that blow over the peninsula, kites are also very popular.  Since the International Kite Festival was in full swing, I checked out the Rokkaku kite battle competition in the afternoon.  With winds in excess of 25 mph, the Japanese style kites were supercharged.  The Rokkaku  is a traditional six-sided Japanese fighter kite. Traditionally, it is made with bamboo spars and Washi paper. The Rokkaku kite is often hand painted with the face of a famous Samurai.  The battle in the sky involves maneuvering the kite in such a way as to cut the string of the other kite or make it crash to the ground.

I crossed paths with Darby, a 50s something cyclist, who was on the tail end of his world tour which took him to 19 countries and lasted 11 months.  He will arrive home in Seattle in several days. Darby will appear in the documentary when it is released next spring.

Distance (mi) = 28.9
Ave Speed (mph) = 10.6
Max Speed (mph) = 25.7
Time (h:m) = 2:43

Route:
101 S, KOA Ilwaco/Long Beach

After a very late start from KOA Bay Center, I put my feet to the pedal to cover 39 miles to get to KOA Ilwaco/Long Beach.  For the first time since the start of the journey, I definitely noticed that my leg muscles are stronger and my knees do not buckle after a day's ride.
  
The sky was overcast and the road shoulders varied from none, small and moderate.  Traffic was moderate to heavy. No rain in the forecast for the next five days.  Nevertheless, I ran into blustery Southeasterly headwinds and intermittent drizzle.  I followed scenic 101 going South skirting Willapa Bay, crossing the Naselle River via a long bridge, passing the Willapa National Wildlife Refuge and climbing a moderate hill to arrive at my destination.

I find that KOAs are better managed than state campgrounds with nicer amenities (grass tent areas, WiFi, laundry, small store, community room).  Being independently owned seems to make a big difference.  State campgrounds usually have the advantage of being closer to nature and beaches...but not always.  The only negative for the KOAs is that there are usually about six or so antiquated coin-operated video game machines in the community rooms (think picture tubes with bad color).  

The Washington International Kite Festival, a week long event in Long Beach is in full swing.  I am going on Tuesday to see individual and team Rokkaku Battles using traditional shaped Japanese Rokkaku battle kites. You have to bring the opponents' kite down. 

Therefore, I will stay at KOA here for two nights.   It is also a good time to do laundry tonight and have microwave a bowl of mac-n-cheese for dinner.

Distance (mi) = 38.9
Ave Speed (mph) = 9.6
Max Speed (mph) = 25.7
Time (h: is) = 4:00

Route:
Tokeland Rd., SR 105, 101 S, Bay Center Dike Rd., KOA Bay Center

Cities:
Raymond, South Bend, Bruceport

After bidding adieu to the folks at the Tokeland Hotel, I was on the road by 9:00 am.  The scenic route winds around Willapa Bay.  By now I was not expecting to get any sun and I didn't.  It was a winding roller coaster ride on relatively quiet 105 with bouts of blustery headwinds and rain.  At Raymond, I stopped for brunch at the Corner Cafe, the only eatery in town open on Sunday.   They make excellent omelets with very good WiFi to boot.  Raymond welcomes travelers with artistic metal deer and elk sculptures but the city did not seem very prosperous.  The area's economy depends on the timber industry and fishing.

At Raymond, SR 105 ends and reunites with 101 at the North Fork of the Willapa River.  From Raymond, the next town is South Bend, a small quaint town settled in 1860...many of the structures still stand. The town is know for its oysters and scenery. Right in the heart of South Bend, just north of the fish factory, in Robert Bush Park, is this pearl of a find: the Worlds Largest Oyster. This monster of a mollusk is the centerpiece of the park that is shared with a nice totem pole and a statue honoring the men and women of the oyster and fishing industries of the area. I grew up in a town called South Bend...but it was in Indiana, home of the Fighting Irish (Notre Dame). 

After South Bend, the road becomes rougher and the shoulders are small or non-existent.  After Bruceport, crossing the Naipikipi River and Palix Creek bridges, I turned right at Bay Center Dyke Road to ride a few more miles along the bay to KOA Bay Center.  Nearby there is a primitive Bush Pioneer County Park as an alternative to KOA.

KOA  Bay Center is a quiet and friendly place and would recommend staying here. There is a good  beach nearby for digging up clams.  The small village of Bay Center is still active in harvesting shellfish and has several small processing facilities there.  At one time it was a thriving oyster farming and harvesting community.  

As I neared Wesport, my first winery on the bike tour appeared out of the mist. I parked my bike, and went in to dry off and do a tasting.  I was surprised how lively the tasting room was at the Westport Winery on that dreary weekday.  The tasting room was already crowded but I was glad to be inside rather than in the rain outside.

Tastings are $5 for tasting  five wines.  About 33 wines are in stock but not all may be on the tasting menu.  There is a variety to choose from, including classic reds, whites, popular fruit, sparklers, and dessert wines.  Big bowls of popcorn are scattered around the tasting bar -- a  very American notion of of how to cleanse the palate. The pourings go non-stop as more visitors arrive.

Most of the grapes used to make the wine come  from wine growing regions in Eastern Washington.  Winery owner and founder, Blain Roberts, picks up the grapes himself and trucks them to the winery.  Only two acres of the farm are used as a vineyard for growing Muscat, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and Melon. Another 25 acres is dedicated to 5,000 irises, 4,000 blueberries, 2,000 raspberries, 2,000 blackberries, 250 huckleberries, 100 apple trees, 100 Asian pear trees, hundreds of strawberries, and other fruit trees. The fruits and berries are used to ferment and blend a variety of fruit based wines.

Roberts explains his unconventional start in the winery business.  He ran a charter and scuba diving company for many years in Maui but envisioned retiring in Maui was too expensive.   That realization led the Roberts family to purchase the 68-acre property on which the winery was built near Westport.

The winery was first opened to the public in February 2008 after completing the first bottling a month earlier.  But it was not without soul searching and deliberations.   Now that Roberts owned the  property, he was looking for suitable uses for the land.  He consulted with advisers at the WSU Extension campus.  The sage advice was to start a winery in the harsh marine environment of Westport.  It would be the westernmost vineyard in Washington with rainfall and sun levels similar to France’s Loire Valley.  What Roberts did not know about the vineyard business was mitigated by his experience in business and marketing operating his former scuba charter business.

The production building was constructed in 2007. This where the grapes are crushed and pressed, juices fermented, blended and tested. It houses the variable capacity stainless steel tanks, oak barrels, grape bins, poly tanks, chillers, pumps and filters. The warehouse which was built in 2009 is next to the production building. It houses bottled wine, bottling supplies, tools and farm equipment.

After a wine making apprenticeship, son Dana became the winemaker in charge of making the magic happen.  Daughter Carrie is the general manager and runs the wine tasting room.
Blain and wife Kim manage the business.

The winery has become popular with locals and visitors alike.  In addition to the winery, there is an adjacent restaurant.  The wine tasting room is integrated with a gift shop.

An outdoor sculpture garden featuring original art by local artists, commemorate each of the winery’s labels. Find your way through the grape maze, toss some horseshoes, play a game of wizard chess, putt two greens while you tour, or simply sit and sip under the largest commercial solar power system in the county.

Stop by this winery and check it out and its nice grounds.  It has won a number of awards and received over 15 medals in various competitions.  It is well worth a visit.

Westport Windery
1 South Arbor Road
Aberdeen, WA 98520
Tel: (360) 648-2224
Web: www.westportwinery.org/

As I arrived at the Tokeland Hotel, Washington's oldest working hotel in Tokeland, Oregon, a John Deere mowing tractor pulled up with a 70s something driver.  After staring at each other for several seconds, I said "Hi there, you must be Scott."  The driver said "Are you ready to tent it?"

Earlier, I had emailed the hotel and Scott responded that the hotel was full but let me pitch my tent on the grass behind the hotel and permission to use the bathroom facilities. 

After setting up my lodging for the night, I went inside looking for a cold brewsky to quench my thirst.  The middle aged waitress inside asked "Can I help you ?"  Her demeanor was as if she has been there for a long time and part of the family.  I said, "I am beyond help."  She glared at me suspiciously unsure of how to respond as if I was asking a trick question.  "I don't know how to respond to that" she said sheepishly.  At this point I sensed I needed to be more direct.  "I just pitched my tent in the back, can I get a cold beer over here?" I blurted out.  "Does the owner know that?" she quizzed me disapprovingly.  "Yeah, the guy on the green tractor told me where to pitch it."  She took me back in the kitchen area where the refrigerated beer case was located and asked me to pick one out.  I took the bottle on the veranda and sat on a bench watching the comings and goings of the guests.

The Tokeland Hotel is a unique lodging, not only because of being listed on the historic register (built in 1885) but also because of the hospitality of the owners and the staff.  Scott and Katherine White took over the property 24 years ago when it was in a state of disrepair.  Reportedly, they bought the property at a Sheriff's sale for $175,000.  It has been sitting empty for five years and the only occupants were a skunk and a raccoon.  It was slimy, it leaked and the plumbing was shot.  The roof had accumulated five layers of shake -- two more than permitted by local building codes.  I believe it was a labor of love that brought Tokeland back to its present state.  It was opened on Mother's Day, 1990 with three rooms available for occupancy with a good reception that overwhelmed the owners.  Katherine is the hostess and head baker.  Tammy is the full time cook and chief WiFi troubleshooter.  Besides riding the John Deere tractor from his residence next to the hotel, Scott cannot stay away from the kitchen for cooking duties.  The word "chef" was never mentioned at the hotel which gave me a hint that I am not around pretentious people.

If you are a princess and need your own bathroom, a luxurious big room, or you're scared of creaky floors or ghosts, then this is probably not the place for you.  What you get at the Tokeland is a quiet old fashioned atmosphere surrounded by antique furniture and memorabilia, serene countrified grounds, a very accommodating staff, and an excellent restaurant where the head cook is also the tractor driver and the owner.   At the Tokeland, guests step back in time to the 1920s with 100 years of memorabilia.

The hotel lobby is decorated with many of the original furnishings and includes an antique, working English organ. Across the lobby is the dining area where meals are served. A cozy room just off the lobby is the perfect place to curl up on the sofa to enjoy the fire, read a favorite book, or just relax. Board games, cards and jigsaw puzzles are available, too. Set off with the original brick fireplace, the room is designed for small gatherings of friends and quiet, personal interludes. All 18 guest rooms are on the second floor of the hotel accessible using a narrow creaky staircase.  The rooms are furnished in a turn-of-the-century fashion. Shared bathrooms are within steps of each room and contain all the modern conveniences. Most rooms sleep two people, but two larger rooms come with queen-size beds.

I had dinner at the hotel restaurant during my tenting stay.  The restaurant has a 100 year old ambiance and I felt that I was having dinner at grandma's house (it was the napkin that really did it).  Scott accommodated my need to divert from the menu and have a smaller sample of several dishes.  I ordered Willapa Bay grilled oysters, local steamed butter clams, salmon chowder, rice pilaf, carrots, and home baked buns.  It was an excellent meal which was complemented with a house white wine.  For those with bigger appetites, the blackberry cobbler is highly praised by the locals.

Then, there is the matter of the ghost in room number seven.  Early in the history of the hotel, Chinese immigrants brought in to work the railroads were smuggled through nearby Raymond and their favorite hiding spot was a large space behind the hotel's fireplace.  One of these characters, Charlie Chan, suffocated there and his spirit roams the halls at night -- so the legend goes.  The hotel has been studied by paranormal and ghost hunters. 

Family reunions seem to be popular at the Tokeland.  In fact, there was a family reunion event of about 20 people happening during my stay.  They all seemed to be enjoying their gathering.

I recommend staying at this unique lodging because of its charming ambiance, great staff, excellent restaurant, and reasonable room rates.  For those seeking additional activities, clam digging is nearby or you can join the locals for crabbing just off the pier near Toke Point.

Tokeland Hotel
100 Tokeland Road
Tokeland, Washington 98590
Tel: (360) 267-7006
Web: www.tokelandhotel.com
Email: scott@tokelandhotel.com

Distance (mi) = 41.6
Ave Speed (mph) = 10.4
Max Speed (mph) = 21.1
Time (h:m) = 4:00

Route:
101, 105 S, Montesano St., W. Sprague Ave., Forest Ave., 105 S, Tokeland Rd., Tokeland Hotel

Cities:
Aberdeen, Westport, Grayland, Tokeland

As I headed out of the RV park, I stopped at Tully's for a latte and an Odwalla super green smoothie.  It was beginning to rain, it was chilly, and my sunglasses did not have wipers. 

I had to cross a bridge after leaving Hoquiam to Aberdeen, the economic center of Grays Harbor County. Since it did not have a shoulder I took the footpath.  After almost crossing the bridge, the path was blocked by a wall.  For a split second. I felt like a rat trapped in a cubicle maze.  I retraced my steps and rode across the bridge when traffic was light.  This was a bridge designer's cruel joke.

Although it's hard to imagine today, at one point Aberdeen was a notorious Western outpost at the turn of the 20th century, with a number of saloons, brothels, and gambling halls in and around the town. Because of the wild atmosphere associated with these establishments, Aberdeen was nicknamed "The Hellhole of the Pacific," or "The Port of Missing Men", because of its high murder rate. One notable resident was Billy Gohl, known locally as Billy "Ghoul", who was rumored to have killed at least 140 men.  During the Great Depression, Aberdeen was hit hard, reducing the number of major sawmills from 37 to 9. Mill owners hired Filipino and Jewish immigrants to keep wages low in order to stay in business. The timber industry continued to boom, but by the late 1970s most of the timber had been logged. Most of the mills were closing down by the 1970s and 1980s.

Leaving Aberdeen, I broke off 101 to SR105 which would route by Westport, a surfing community.  It was wet and cold but my spirits were high because for the next 20 miles the shoulders were wide and smooth.

"Baby that's what I like,
Chantilly lace and a pretty face..."

As I neared Wesport, my first winery appeared out of the mist. I parked my bike, and went in dry off and do a tasting.  I was surprised how lively the tasting room was on that dreary weekday. The Westport Winery is reviewed in a separate post.

Back on the road, I opted to take a three mile detour to visit Westport, a popular spot for surfing and ocean sport fishing.  The coastal area around Westport reminds me of Oahu's North Beach area...funky with hints of pirates and treasure.

In Westport I discovered an espresso joint that roasted its own beans and had excellent espresso drinks.  The Tinderbox Coffee Roasters is only a year old.  Nick, the owner, said there were a few other hobbyist roasters in town. He fixed me up a 'hobo' pack, a dark blend, filters and stirring sticks (the sticks poke through holes in the paper filter, the stick lays across the cup, put ground coffee in the cup, fill with hot water).  Take a picture on the bench with the ocean background, play in the game room, or cruise the web.  It even has a setup for musicians.  Check it out when you are in Westport.

Continuing on 105 in the early afternoon, the sky started to clear.  On this stretch of 105, the road narrowed with smaller shoulders, rougher and sometimes with potholes.   This is surfing country...that's cool dude.  So, I pedaled on to Tokeland, eventually turning on to the Tokeland Road for a few miles. 

As I arrived at Washington's oldest working hotel, Tokeland Hotel, a John Deere mowing tractor pulled up with a 70s something driver.  After staring at each other for several seconds, I said "Hi there, you must be Scott."  The driver said "Are you ready to tent it?"

Earlier, I had emailed the hotel and Scott responded that the hotel was full but let me pitch my tent on the grass behind the hotel.  See my separate posting where I provide more details about this unique lodging.

Distance (mi) = 42.0
Ave Speed (mph) = 9.0
Max Speed (mph) = 22.1
Time (h:m) = 4.75

Route:
101 S, Hoquiam River RV Park

Cities:
Humptulips, Hoquiam

Slept in till 8:00 am hoping the rain would abate ... but no such luck.  I was on the road by 8:30 am in very chilly weather, overcast, and raining.  It was bad enough that I had to put away the tent soaking wet, but it was just the start of a day with issues.

Highway 101 starts off right away with a morning warmup uphill grind passing clear cut areas and bands of second growth timber.  The road shoulders for the next 40 miles are sometimes none, mostly small, and some moderate and wide.  The road surface is rough causing vibration and making pedaling harder.  Did I mention the rain?  Traffic was mostly light to moderate.  The log haulers were out in force.  I pedaled on for 20 miles until I came to Humptulips and saw the first small general store for the day.  Most importantly, I was able to have my first coffee and purchased some energy bars. 

As I was leaving, an older local came hobbling up on crutches.  I asked, "Did you break a leg?" "No," came the response, "I have a bad flare-up of gout ... feet very swollen." "Oh, I see ... take some black cherry concentrate and don't eat so much red meat"  I did not know what the response would be to my dispensation of home remedies and nutritional information.  After all, these are rain forest people. Surprisingly, the rain forest guy said, "Funny, someone else told me that, but I really like to eat steaks."

Within two miles after departing the store, I had to stop again on the shoulder because something started 'clanging' on the bike behind me.  Immediately, I diagnosed the problem: an Allen head bolt became loose from the vibration and fell out (lost).   This bolt was used to attach left side of the rear rack to the bike's frame.  Without this bolt, the unstable heavy panniers may break the aluminum rack.  Note to Myself: check the tightness of bolts every week.  For now, I had to find a solution to carry on at least 18 miles to a Hoquiam bike shop.  I devised a temporary fix with a small screw found on the roadside and electrical tape (see pic).

In two miles, I stopped again at the Li'l Prairie Mart to chat with several bikers who were heading North.  Ryan Marsel and Rob Spiewak were recent college grads 'pedaling the cause' to raise awareness about bicycle safety.  On the road for three months, they pedaled to Austin, Texas from Chicago.  They are winding up their tour in Washington.  Follow their travels at their website.  They will appear in the documentary even though the noise from the lumber trucks tried to sabotage our shoot.

A forty year old something heading North, also stopped stopped at the Li'l Prairie Mart.  Greg is embarked on a much longer tour with plans to cycle around the world in the next nine years.  His bike towed a single-wheeled trailer ,,, a way of doing away with panniers but increasing rolling friction (there is no free lunch).  He bought it after his wheel rims began to crack from the stress caused by the weight of his gear.  With the rear trailer, the weight is distributed better but there is more rolling friction making uphill pulls more difficult.  He calls his website "The Starving Cyclist."

The last 15 miles into Hoquiam were under clearing skies.  The Hoquiam River RV Park is very popular with RVs, but there are tent spaces in a grassy area by the Hoquiam River.  Denise and Gordon who live in an RV themselves, manage the park.  Denise offers newcomers cookies she bakes when they check-in.  The facility has a clubhouse with a fully equipped kitchen, leather couches, large screen TV, a dining area.  The bathrooms and showers which are attached to the clubhouse were clean and well maintained.  Recommend this camping spot.

After check-in I set up the tent to allow it to dry out and rode a mile to the nearest grocery store, Swansons ... mediocre but convenient.  There is also a Tulley's Coffee on the way to the grocery store with good espresso  and WiFi.  The LaVogue bike shop next door had bolt to fix rack.

Distance (mi) = 32.0
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.6
Max Speed (mph) = 22.6
Time (h:m) = 3:41

Route:
Highway 101 W, Willaby Campground (Lake Quinault)

CIties:
Amanda Park, Lake Quinault

As I left South Beach, it was cold, foggy, overcast, and drizzling rain.  I stopped at Queets Trading Post for a coffee.  As I started my bike trek through miles and miles of forest, I felt the ancient trees were leering at me with a telepathic message:   "We have been here for more than a thousand years, you can only be here for 80 years."  My thoughts were "OK, but at least, I don't have to be standing in the same place."

My original plan was to continue on Highway 101 to Hoquiam River RV Park.  At South Beach, I decided to divert and break off 101 to 109 and ride along the coast to Pacific Beach.  After almost an hour of riding, I realized that I made my first navigational mistake on this trip ... I went past my turn-off to the beaches by seven miles.   I just stood there on the side of 101 as traffic zipped by contemplating where I went wrong.  Perhaps it was a mysterious unknown force which guided me away from the turn-off for some reason (perhaps I listen too much to Coast to Coast AM, or perhaps I should have turned on my GPS).  I decided to continue on 101 rather than turn back and retrace seven lost miles.  I am a believer in intuitive clairvoyance.

The 101 route turns Southeast leaving the coast heading inland through miles of forest and logging clearings.  The mysterious unknown force rewarded me with more than five miles of an arduous uphill climb.  After grinding out these difficult miles, the terrain becomes gentle with rolling hills.  The road shoulders are barely adequate with mostly small and moderate widths.  The road is paved but rough creating vibration as the bike's wheel roll over the road.  The roughness also creates additional rolling friction so it feels like the rider is climbing a small hill. Caution needs to be exercised because double tractor trailer semis rumble by every 5-10 minutes with full loads of alder and hemlock timber.  Their passing creates a wind shudder and strong scent of recently harvested wood.  Logging truck drivers are experienced so the rider needs to maintain a straight course without weaving.  I made a rear view rolling cam video scene to try to recreate the experience.  I will incorporate it in the documentary if the footage looks good.

Just before reaching Lake Quinault, the small village of Armand Park is worth a visit. I checked out the Quinault Internet Cafe and Visitor Center.   Great espresso, very good home cooked grub, fast WiFi, free on-site computer use and friendly staff make it a must stop ... I spent two hours here writing.  It will be on the left traveling on 101.  There is also a public library on the left just before reaching the cafe.

The five mile ride to Camp Willaby on Southshore Road by Lake Quinault will put you in a scenic setting overlooking the lake (no RVS, tents only).  Camp Willaby is located on the south shore of Lake Quinault in the beautiful temperate rainforest.  On this particular day, it was raining and the mosquitoes were so voracious and bountiful at the campsite that it was akin to a mosquito hatchery.  The Lake Quinault Lodge was just half of a mile from the camp so I rode there in the pouring rain after setting up the tent.  For  three bucks, you get to use the shower, sauna, and pool ... just what I needed.  It seemed to be popular place in beautiful surroundings.  Worth a visit.

Back at the camp, it was night of rain.

Distance (mi) = 38
Ave Speed (mph) = 9.3
Max Speed (mph) = 23.9
Time (h:m) = 4:02

Route:
101 W/S, South Beach Campground

Cities:
Kalaloch Lodge

After an early 7:30 start, from Bogachiel, I climbed miles of moderately ascending sections on 101 where the shoulders were small or moderate.  Traffic was relatively light ... empty logging semi tractor trailers heading South to pick up their loads ... this is timber harvesting country.  After grinding out long ascents, the road winds around Olympic National Forest in series of roller coaster hills.  Some of the short hills are steep. The road in this section is rough and caution is advised on downhill runs.  The shoulder is small mostly.

The routes traverses through the Hoh Rain Forest and the Hoh Indian Reservation.  Eventually, the road enters the Olympic National Park area. About 16 miles from Bogachiel, there is a hostel on the left side of the road called the Rainforest Hostel ... there was not much activity there when I passed by.  After 25 miles, I reached  the Pacific Coast.   The improved road with moderate shoulders parallels the Pacific Ocean to the South Beach Campground.

The only respite for the rider is at the Kalaloch Lodge which has overnight accommodations in the lodge and cabins on the bluff. .. a decent restaurant is also located on the premises, Creekside Dining Restaurant.  No WiFi at the lodge.  This is a recommended stop as the property sits on the bluff on the Pacific Ocean.  The view is spectacular and a short hike to the beach provides good access to the many tide pools in the area.  A general store is next to the lodge.  After a lunch of "Kalaloch salmon burger," I caught up on my writing inspired by a majestic view of the Pacific.  As I was about to depart for South Beach Campground, I crossed paths with Dan, a young man from Chicago who had an open-ended plan to cycle down the California coast.  A stranger next to us said, "Is this your son? I said, "No, but he could be."  You will get to meet Dan in the video documentary when it is released next spring.

The South Beach Campground is primitive with no water but there are restroom facilities.  It sits on bluff overlooking the vast Pacific Ocean with easy access to miles of pristine beach with surf action and waves pounding the beach.  There are opportunities for spectacular sunsets when it is not overcast.  The beach is covered with giant logs washed on shore by storms.  I heard the sounds of ocean surf all night and for the first time on the trip, my feet met the frigid waters of the ocean.

The campground was full, but Bill and his wife from Tacoma offered to share their RV space.  Bill retired from the Puget Sound Bank after a lifetime career there.  They travel in their Pleasure  Way RV.  The neighbors, Nemie and Cora are from the Philippines, but keep a house for the summers in Bremerton where Neime spent a career there in the Navy shipyard. 

For dinner, I purchased smoked salmon at Queets Trading Post.  It was made by the Quinault tribe, known locally as "The Salmon People."  The excellent alder wood smoked salmon is a testament to their craft.  The tribe ceremonially honors this fish that populate their pristine river and ocean waters.  Bill invited us for home made chocolate chip cookies and ice cram for dessert.

The only WiFi in the area is at a small grocery store and gas station, The  Queets Trading Post, which is located two miles further South on 101 (left side of the road).

Distance (mi) = 49
Ave Speed (mph) = 9.7
Max Speed (mph) = 22.8
Time (h:m) = 5:00

Route:
Highway 101 W/S. Bogachiel State Park

Cities:
Forks

Departed Log Cabin Resort at 7:30 am and took the four mile narrow and hilly road from the camp to back to 101 to start the gnarly 11-mile run on the South shore of Crescent Lake.  It was gray and gloomy with cloudy, overcast skies that lasted all day but my spirits were high. This stretch of the route is without shoulders and the rider is sandwiched between passing cars on a narrow winding road and a guard rail most of the way. See the separate posting which gives guidance on traversing this segment as safely as possible.

After passing Lake Crescent, there is a small Fairholme General Store & Cafe which offers basic supplies, sandwiches and excellent drip coffee. I expected to get a "I survived Lake Crescent" sticker here but instead I stopped here for 30 minutes to enjoy view of Lake Crescent.

Continuing on 101 presents the rider with a grueling two mile uphill climb after which the road levels off with gentle ascents and downhill runs into Forks.  The road shoulder starts off on the small side then becomes mostly moderate and wide in some places.  Approaching Forks, a town of 3700, the road  becomes rougher with some potholes ... watch out for them on the downhill runs.  Traffic after Lake Crescent is light to moderate.

Forks derives its name from the fact that three rivers merge to flow into the ocean: the Bogachiel, the Solduc, the Calawah Rivers.  The town is 'famous' for being the setting for the TV series, "The Twilight" saga (Dracula people).  The Visitor Center, a mile after leaving Forks, has free WiFi and has details about Forks.

About half way to Forks, on the left side of road, the Hungry Bear Cafe, offers basic fare and  WiFi in the middle of nowhere.  Here, I met Matt, a cycling enthusiast, from Eugene, Oregon who was passing through with his truck.  He showed interest in my trip and gave me the keys to his beach house near Newport, Oregon to use for a few days on the way down the coast.  I thanked Matt for the kind gesture and will stop there for a few days in about two weeks.

Bogachiel State Park which is about seven miles South of Forks had two biker/hiker campsites and both were available .... the relatively small RV and camping area was only one-third full.

There, I met Ron and Laura who were parked in their RV site near my tent.  Like me, Ron also spent his career in the semiconductor industry so we had interesting chats about the chip industry, living in Singapore and Hawaiian politics. Laura hails from Hawaii. .. born in Maui.  They operate a vineyard in the Willamette Valley in Oregon and they invited me to taste a Merlot and Syrah fermented using their premium grapes grown at their vineyard.

Lake Crescent is nine.miles long and one mile wide.  In Washington, it is the second deepest and is the third largest in the Western part of the state.  By far, it is the largest lake in Olympic Peninsula.

So then, why is the Lake Crescent section of 101 dangerous to bike riders? Because an 11 mile section of 101 which skirts the lake has no or very minimal shoulders and blind sharp turns.  Traversing South on 101, the rider is pinned against a guard rail for much of the way.  To add insult to injury, most of the route is posted with a 35 MPH speed limit but cars, RVs and trucks zip by at much greater speed.

There are several strategies when to go.  On weekends there tends to be fewer semi trailers and commercial trucks  but very dense RV traffic.  On weekdays, less RVs but more trucks, including those double trailer logging semis.  I opted for a weekday run since I trust the driving skills of commercial operators more than RV drivers -- some being newbie RV renters.

An early morning departure is best for less traffic.  Turn on all rear red flashers.  I had three -- two on the rear of the bike, one on the helmet.  Visibility is key.  Wear a nuclear yellow vest.

At the start of the dangerous 11-mile stretch, push the button which activates a flashing light warning motorists that a cyclist is on the road (see pictures).

Ride as near the edge of the road as possible without chance of hitting the guard rail.  Ride straight and true without wobbling.   Let the vehicles passing you manage the move around the bike.

There are a few turnouts--let cars pass if  necessary and enjoy the view of the lake. 

There a few small bridges.   If there is traffic coming and going on the bridge at the same time, wait before crossing.

After the crossing, there is a small general store called Fairholm General Store and Cafe.  They an excellent drip coffee, sandwiches and convenience items.  Stop and enjoy a cup with a view of the the South end of the lake -- you have cheated death one more time.

Distance (mi) = 26.8
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.6
Max Speed (mph) = 24.7
Time (h:m) = 3.05

Route:
Olympic Discovery Trail, 101, East Beach Rd., Log Cabin RV Resort

Cities:
Lake Crescent

Left Port Angeles after a morning meet up with acquaintances Dave and Karen, proprietors of the Oven Spoonful catering company and coffee shop. Highway 101 was moderately busy with shoulders that ranged from small, moderate and wide.

I heard music at Granny's Cafe, 15 miles out of Port Angeles and stopped to make a video recording of a group playing old-time country music.

I diverted from the plan and decided to stay at the Log Cabin Resort for one night which overlooks Lake Crescent in a spectacular setting.  It is about three miles off 101 on East Beach Road...before 101 routes around the Southern shore of the lake.  The resort has a variety log cabin accommodations, RV spaces, several tent sites and two bike tent sites.  Unfortunately, the resort has no WiFi.  Lots of families with kids stay here.  The lake is warm enough for swimming.  At 660 feet it is the second deepest lake in Washington and the water clarity is excellent due to the lack of nitrogen in the water.


Originally built as the Log Cabin Hotel, it was erected in 1895 overlooking beautiful Lake Crescent. It was a handsomely constructed two-story building of peeled cedar logs. The hotel was a "far-famed" vacation spot until it fell victim to fire in 1932. Log Cabin Resort was constructed at the same location in the early fifties on Lake Crescent, located within what is now known as Olympic National Park, a World Heritage Park, designated a National Park by Congress in 1938

Tomorrow I am officially in 'temperate' rainforest country and will be traversing a dangerous 12 mile stretch on 101 around the south side of Lake Crescent.  I will not see many cities for the next days as I traverse the Olympic Peninsula.

Port Angeles has character and the two unexpected days there gave me a chance to explore the city and waterfront.

At Sound Bikes and Kayaks, the bike's chain was replaced and the mysterious source of the strange clicking noise was due to the right pedal being a bit loose. Trek is happy again.

On Saturday evening at the spur of the moment, I was invited by Miranda and her mother Rosemarie (visiting from Rochester, New York) to go with them to an RV camp by Lake Crescent to meet up with their friends for a potluck picnic dinner.  It was the healthiest eats I had on the trip so far. They were also staying at the Toad Lily  Hostel. I will be heading in that direction the next day.

Distance (mi) = 17.8
Ave Speed (mph) = 7.8
Max Speed (mph) = 19.4
Time (h:m) = 2.21

Route:
Dungeness Wilderness Area, Kitchen Dick Rd., Olympic Discovery Trail, Port Angeles, Toad Lily Hostel

Cities:
Port Angeles

The early morning rise was very foggy and wet...what else is new.  I rode the Olympic Discovery Trail all the way  to Port Angeles.  Very scenic and avoided Highway 101 but it added 5 miles to the ride and was very hilly as in a strenuous roller coaster ride.

I am diverting from the plan for a few days and staying at the Toad Lily Hostel in Port Angeles for three nights.  Let me explain.  The bike developed a weird 'krink' in the cranking mechanism (or?) which has to be checked out at a bike shop.  There are no bike shops for about 200+ miles after Port Angeles in the direction I am heading so I better get it checked out here.  The second reason is that I was informed by local riders that I should traverse the dangerous 12 mile Lake Crescent stretch on a weekday to minimize the possibility of being squished against the metal guard rail by inexperienced RV drivers.  So on a positive note, it will give me a chance to explore Port Angeles for a few days.

The hostel was full, so Cody, the owner/manager, offered a solution -- pitch a tent behind the house.  It was a grassy area...a 'premium' site compared to the dirt pads at state campgrounds.   I was able to shave and take my first shower in five days.  Cody started the hostel two years ago and it is still a work in progress.  The dwelling next door where he resides will also be part  of the hostel in the future.   Between the two houses, there is a newly constructed espresso and juicing kiosk in the shape of a giant tin cup or steamship smoke stack (let your imagination decide). Toad Lily is the only hostel in Port Angeles since the Thor Hostel ceased operations recently. 

If you have not stayed at hostels, let me give you some hints.  They all tend to be somewhat funky and their clientele are usually younger people traveling on the cheap, eclectic types, international travelers (they are accustomed to hostels), hikers, bicycle touring people, and other assorted colorful  characters.  The top three nationalities I see at hostels are Germans, French and Italians. Usually, a hostel has shared rooms, shared dorms, shared bath/shower, shared kitchen, washer/dryer, common areas, TV room, WiFi, and a community atmosphere.  The Toad Lily has all these and I can recommend the hostel.

The hostel is conveniently located in the downtown area just six blocks from the waterfront. Serendipitously, services I need are conveniently located within a block from Toad Lily: Bella Rosa Coffee House, Bike Garage, Safeway, Olympic Barber Shop, and the city pool.  Bella has a decent espresso and very good WiFi.  Got a short haircut at the Olympic.  Tom at the Bike Garage was very helpful and arranged to have the bike's chain replaced at the Sound Bike and Kayak.

The city indoor pool (William Shore Pool)  which is near the hostel uses salt water!