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Astoria To Nehalem State Park

8/23/2013

2 Comments

 
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Clam chowder at the Driftwood
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Into the tunnel
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Nice view from here approaching Nehslem State Park
Distance (mi) = 59,4
Ave Speed (mph) = 8.8
Max Speed (mph) = 24.7
Time (h:m) = 6:43

Route: 101 S, Seaside, Canon Beach, Nehalem State Park

Left Astotia in a cold drizzling rain and stopped on the way out of town at Three Cups Coffeehouse.  The Astoria-Warrengton corridor is very busy and involves crossing Young Bay on a bridge which is one mile long with a small shoulder.  I noticed that there were many forts around Astoria and the Columbia River which flows into the Pacific Ocean.   It was an important and strategic military base.

The road to Canon Beach was very busy with traffic but had four lanes and a wide shoulder, so it was tolerable.  At the turnoff to Sunset Beach, the Oregon DOT noted that it was a bike route so I took it thinking it was a scenic bypass of 101 for several miles..  After a mile, I ended up by Sunset Lake and a small Indian village with a bakery and a very run-down RV park.  I stopped at the bakery to get what looked like a type of brownie I never had before.  There were two tables of ladies in their late senior years having some kind of gathering ... they were too primpy to be tourists.  The 50s something Indian man with long grayish hair tied in a pony tail looked up from his reading material at the pay counter and announced the price was $1.50.   I handed him a $20 and from his body language noticed he was annoyed that he had to make some change.  Grudgingly, he pulled out a big wad of $1s from his pocket, did some fast maneuvers shifting money from the cash register back to his pocket and finally produced my change.  His sleight of hand was remarkable, and for a second I thought my $20 bill had disappeared.  On the way out the door of the bakery, the Indian yelled, "If you follow the Oregon Bike route,  you will end up in the sand.  You need to turn back the way you came and get on 101"  I thought he might be trying to send me back because I didn't have change.  I double checked at the RV park and they confirmed that I should go back to 101.   Someday, I may try to find out why Oregon DOT was misleading bike riders.

I heard that an internationally renown running relay was going to bring thousands of riders to finish at Seaside...so I was glad to pass through a day before they arrive.  At Seaside, I started to buck strong headwinds, dark gray skies, light rain, cold ... but at least no deluge. About three miles from Canon Beach, a very strenuous long upgrade began which had me completely drenched in warm sweat on the inside...and soaked on the outside from the cold rain.  Ohhhh, isn't touring fun?  No one promised me a rose garden.  Then finally a steep descent into Canon Beach ... The cold wind generated by the 25 mph downhill run turned my sweat into a refrigeration system.  Are we having fun yet?  I am sure there will be sunny days ahead.

At Canon Beach I stopped at the Driftwood Restaurant to have some clam chowder.  This was based on local knowledge and it turned out to be accurate -- it was delicious.  At a whim on the way out of town, at the Sleepy Monks Coffee house and roasters, I stopped for an organic latte.  Their espresso machine broke down but the proprietor felt sorry for me and handed me a dark roast drip coffee.

The ride from Canon Beach to Nehalem State Park can only be described as arduous .... very difficult, the sweat poured on the inside but determination kept me pumping slowly up the long hills.  I stopped in the rain to gawk at the spectacular scenery. I arrived at Nehalem at 6:30 pm which is fairly late.  The camp was full, but bikers and hikers have their special site and are never turned away.   The park attendant sent me in the woods, deep woods ... I expected to see Robin Hood pop out any minute, the way the trees were growing.  There was a merry band of five bikers already set up with tents when I arrived.   

The park community room was in party mode as a groom was having a dinner in advance of his marriage the next day.  The regular campers were all in a festive mood in spite of the weather and there were kids everywhere.

I could immediately tell that Oregon manages their parks better than Washington.   The facilities are nicer and cleaner.  The showers work and don't require quarters or tokens.  They even offer to charge your electronics when you check in.

After a very long hot shower, I called it a day.
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2 Comments
Gyongyi Szirom
8/24/2013 03:01:27 am

I have fond memories of freezing my butt off at Cannon Beach...some maniac took me on a camping trip there...forgot the warm sleeping bags. It looks like the weather has not improved. Brrr!

Reply
Deb
8/24/2013 12:06:51 pm

Your poor sister even had a bad cold on the camping trip mentioned above, so thank goodness you are not whining about the cold weather condtions Mr. WC Bike Tour Man, or else you would be in deep dodo!

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    About the Journal

    Picture
    The Trip Journal is Steve Szirom's account of his West Coast bike tour from the Canadian border to the Mexican border following the Pacific Coast. Posts will be made regularly depending on the availability of Wi-Fi.

    I will be staying mostly at state parks but will also make use of hostels the Warm Showers and Couch Surfing networks when available...and even a motel or two when nothing else is available.

    The postings will cover each segment of the trip.. The most recent segment posting is always at the top.  

    Notes will be made where I divert from the initial plan.  Items of interest and recommended businesses and services will be mentioned based on my experience. 

    As a matter of definition when I mention "road shoulder" it means the following : no shoulder (0 feet), small shoulder (0-2 feet), moderate shoulder (2-4 feet), wide shoulder (greater than 4 feet)

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    Recommended

    The following hyper-linked recommendations are based on my personal visits/reviews and are listed in date order visited starting with earliest.

    WASHINGTON
    Five Guys

    Lettered Streets Cafe
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    Port Townsend Food Co-op
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    The Garden Espresso
    Hurrican Coffee Co.
    Dungeness Wilderness Area
    Olympic Discovery Trail
    Bella Rosa Coffee House
    Bike Garage
    Sound Bikes & Kayaks
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    Oven Spoonful
    Toad Lily Hostel
    Granny's Cafe
    Lake Crescent
    Log Cabin Resort
    Fairholm General Store & Cafe
    Hungry Bear Cafe
    Forks
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    Rainforest Hostel
    Kalaloch Lodge
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    Queets Trading Post
    South Beach Campground
    Quinault Internet Cafe
    Camp Willaby
    Hoquiam RV Park
    Westport Winery
    Tinderbox Coffee Roasters
    Tokeland Hotel
    Corner Cafe
    KOA Bay Center
    KOA Iwalco/Long Beach
    Washington Kite Festival
    Imperial Schooner
    OREGON
    Three Cups Coffee House
    Bikes and Beyond
    Norblad Hotel and Hostel
    Fort George Brewery
    Astoria Co-op
    Astoria Riverwalk
    Liberty Theater
    Columbia Cafe
    Norma's Seafood & Steak
    Driftwood Restaurant
    Sleepy Monks Coffee
    Nehalem State Park
    Roost Cafe
    Kelly's Brighton Marina
    Rockaway Beach
    Port of Garibaldi
    Cape Lookout B&B
    Camp Lookout State Park
    Pelican Pub & Brewery
    McMenamin's Pub & Brewery
    Haystack Coffee Roasters
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    Georgie's Beachside Grill
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    Sunset Bay State Park
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    The Crazy Norwegian's Fish & Chips
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    NORTHERN CALIFORNIA
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    Beachcomber Cafe
    Caffe Mokka
    Arcata Marsh
    Avenue of the Giants
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    Humboldt Redwoods Park
    Miranda Avenue Cafe
    The Peg House
    Westport Union Landing Park
    Headlands Coffee House
    Van Damme State Park
    Elk Store
    Point Arena Market & Cafe
    Manchester KOA
    Trinks Cafe
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    Timber Cove Inn
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    Hog Island Oyster Farm
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    Highway 1 Brewing Co.
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