If you must experience the 30-minute white knuckle ride across it, be aware that there are NO shoulders, is windy to very windy, and the traffic zips by at 60 mph. I would recommend to do it as early as possible in the morning and pray that drivers aren't texting that early. Turn on all your rear flashers, close your eyes, hold your breath, and ride like hell ... straight and true as there are about four inches on the left side to avoid cars/buses and four inches on the right to avoid the cement bridge abutment. The scenery is fantastic but don't stop to take pictures.
The insurance costs 50 cents, i.e., a bus ride across. If you opt for the bus (recommended), plan to arrive in the Ilwaco/Long Beach area in the evening. In the morning, ride to the Port of Ilwaco bus stop so that you arrive by at least 9:00 am.
The Pacific Transit Systems bus #24 arrives at 9:30 am (check schedules for any changes). The bus is equipped with two front-loading bike carriers, but the driver may allow a third bike in the coach if there aren't many passengers. If you miss this bus, the next one is not until mid afternoon. The ride is 14 miles and costs 50 cents. It is the cheapest life insurance you will ever buy. Enjoy the view.
Get off the bus at the first stop after the bridge on Marine Drive next to a smoke shop. The next bus stop is the main terminal in the downtown area. Ride one block East on Marine Drive and you will arrive at the Three Cups Coffee House/Columbia River Coffee Roasters located almost under the bridge. Excellent espresso drinks, latte art, grub, pastries, and fast WiFi await you. If you rode across the bridge, you will need a strong adult beverage at a hardcore bar that is open in the morning.
Seven blocks further East on Marine Drive is the Bikes and Beyond shop, in case you bike needs attention. At this juncture, you are on the main Highway 101 which will take you South along the Oregon coast. I opted to stay for two days to explore this interesting Columbia River bar city.
Continue East on Marine Drive until 14th St. and take a right until Exchange Street to find the Norblad Hotel and Hostel (formerly the Hideaway Inn and Hostel). The hotel/hostel has been renovated a year ago with 15 completed rooms. One of the owners, Paul Caruana, said the property will eventually have 16 additional rooms which will be rented on a monthly basis for about $485/month. A hostel style dorm room is also in the works.
The rooms are basic with good Euro style furnishings and fixtures: queen bed, small table, wash basin/mirror, a flat panel TV mounted on the wall with a swiveling bracket and closet. Plenty of towels are provided. There is a community kitchen. The bathrooms and shower rooms (fully tiled) are shared but were very clean. I recommend this hotel/hostel because the rooms are clean, reasonably priced ($59 for a basic room) and it is conveniently located in downtown. The Astoria food co-op is behind the hotel and the Fort George microbrewery and restaurant is across the street. Cafes and eateries are within easy walking distance, as is the popular Astoria Riverwalk and Liberty Theater.
I ran across my first microbrewery, the Fort George Brewery and Public House. Tasted several brews in their Tap Room: the Divinity, Cavatica Stout and Working Girl Porter (who makes up these names?). More on this brewery in a separate post.