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Ilwaco To Astoria: Hello Oregon, Goodbye Washington

8/21/2013

7 Comments

 
Picture
A minor tune-up on the Trek at Bikes and Beyond
Picture
Staying at the Norblad Hotel and Hostel
After consulting local cyclists, viewing the high wind forecasts, finding out about construction on the bridge and getting a reading from a gypsy fortune teller, I and Myself made the executive decision to take a bus across the bridge ... the busy four mile Astoria-Megler Bridge connecting Washington and Oregon.

If you must experience the 30-minute white knuckle ride across it, be aware that there are NO shoulders, is windy to very windy, and the traffic zips by at 60 mph.  I would recommend to do it as early as possible in the morning and pray that drivers aren't texting that early.  Turn on all your rear flashers, close your eyes, hold your breath, and ride like hell ... straight and true as there are about four inches on the left side to avoid cars/buses and four inches on the right to avoid the cement bridge abutment.  The scenery is fantastic but don't stop to take pictures.

The insurance costs 50 cents, i.e., a bus ride across.  If you opt for the bus (recommended), plan to arrive in the Ilwaco/Long Beach area in the evening.  In the morning, ride to the Port of Ilwaco bus stop so that you arrive by at least 9:00 am.
The Pacific Transit Systems bus #24 arrives at 9:30 am (check schedules for any changes).  The bus is equipped with two front-loading bike carriers, but the driver may allow a third bike in the coach if there aren't many passengers.  If you miss this bus, the next one is not until mid afternoon.  The ride is 14 miles and costs 50 cents.  It is the cheapest life insurance you will ever buy.  Enjoy the view.

Get off the bus at the first stop after the bridge on Marine Drive next to a smoke shop.   The next bus stop is the main terminal in the downtown area.  Ride one block East on Marine Drive and you will arrive at the Three Cups Coffee House/Columbia River Coffee Roasters located almost under the bridge.  Excellent espresso drinks, latte art, grub, pastries, and fast WiFi await you.  If you rode across the bridge, you will need a strong adult beverage at a hardcore bar that is open in the morning.

Seven blocks further East on Marine Drive is the Bikes and Beyond shop, in case you bike needs attention.  At this juncture, you are on the main Highway 101 which will take you South along the Oregon coast.   I opted to stay for two days to explore this interesting Columbia River bar city.

Continue East on Marine Drive until 14th St. and take a right until Exchange Street to find the Norblad Hotel and Hostel (formerly the Hideaway Inn and Hostel).  The hotel/hostel has been renovated a year ago with 15 completed rooms.  One of the owners, Paul Caruana, said the property will eventually have 16 additional rooms which will be rented on a monthly basis for about $485/month.  A hostel style dorm room is also in the works.

The rooms are basic with good Euro style furnishings and fixtures: queen bed, small table, wash basin/mirror, a flat panel TV mounted on the wall with a swiveling bracket and closet.  Plenty of towels are provided.  There is a community kitchen.  The bathrooms and shower rooms (fully tiled) are shared but were very clean.  I recommend this hotel/hostel because the rooms are clean, reasonably priced ($59 for a basic room) and it is conveniently located in downtown.  The Astoria food co-op is behind the hotel and the Fort  George microbrewery and restaurant is across the street.  Cafes and eateries are within easy walking distance, as is the popular Astoria Riverwalk and Liberty Theater.

I ran across my first microbrewery, the Fort George Brewery and Public House. Tasted several brews in their Tap Room: the Divinity, Cavatica Stout and Working Girl Porter (who makes up these names?). More on this brewery in a separate post.
Picture
The tapmeister at Port George Brewery
7 Comments
Gyongyi Szirom
8/22/2013 07:05:30 am

I'm mighty glad you took the bus over the bridge...no point in getting smeared on the railing or knocked over the railing into the abyss. Didn't we go through Astoria on out John Day trip with Kati some years back? Was the bike acting up again or was the tune-up routine maintenance? Happy travels!

Reply
Steve Szirom
8/22/2013 07:14:57 am

Routine checkup, oil chain.

Reply
Dessert Queen
8/22/2013 09:35:28 am

Have had really good food at Astoria restaurant called "Uriah's" (if memory serves). On the east side of southbound Main Street in down town area. Small eatery; sit at counter. Last time we stopped there in the fall, he was processing peppers, sweet to hot, in a room next door.

Reply
Steve Szirom
8/22/2013 10:17:05 am

Now called the Columbian Cafe, Chef Uriah Hulsey.

Reply
Jerry Rosenfeld
8/22/2013 08:38:58 pm

Have been following your adventure since Day 1, but—due to pressure caused by my envy bone pressing against my left cerebral hemisphere—words have failed me. I’ve missed the postings since The Big Vaseline Tube photo on 8/16 (I hope that wasn’t the position required for applying the stuff). I’ve just read the missed posts and the late hour seems to have relieved the envy pressure, so here are some words:

I’m had a few adventures in my time, the most memorable being a couple months with a friend running the Inside Passage from Sitka to Glacier Bay in a 14 ft open sail boat. And many friends have told of adventures more exotic, more tempting, more challenging and more fun than mine. Plus, there are all those raves from more comfort-bound friends about their fabulous cruises and tours to jungles and steppes, world capitals and island paradises. But, I gotta tell you, Steve, without a moment’s hesitation, I’d trade any of those adventures for the one you’re having.

Be safe and be well.

Reply
Steve Szirom
8/23/2013 01:55:07 am

Thank you Jerry, for the kind words.

Reply
krink
8/23/2013 10:19:04 am

Did you like Whitney's joke??
By the way- if you travel to Hawaii after returning from this bike
trip, it's going to put us all over the edge in the envy department...


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    About the Journal

    Picture
    The Trip Journal is Steve Szirom's account of his West Coast bike tour from the Canadian border to the Mexican border following the Pacific Coast. Posts will be made regularly depending on the availability of Wi-Fi.

    I will be staying mostly at state parks but will also make use of hostels the Warm Showers and Couch Surfing networks when available...and even a motel or two when nothing else is available.

    The postings will cover each segment of the trip.. The most recent segment posting is always at the top.  

    Notes will be made where I divert from the initial plan.  Items of interest and recommended businesses and services will be mentioned based on my experience. 

    As a matter of definition when I mention "road shoulder" it means the following : no shoulder (0 feet), small shoulder (0-2 feet), moderate shoulder (2-4 feet), wide shoulder (greater than 4 feet)

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    Recommended

    The following hyper-linked recommendations are based on my personal visits/reviews and are listed in date order visited starting with earliest.

    WASHINGTON
    Five Guys

    Lettered Streets Cafe
    Anthony's@Squalicum Harbor

    Tony's Coffeehouse
    Larrabee State Park
    Edison
    Padilla Bay Trail
    Tommy Thomson Trail
    Deception Pass Bridge
    Deception Pass State Park
    Coupeville Wharf
    Keystone Ferry
    Port Townsend Food Co-op
    Old Fort Townsend State Park
    The Garden Espresso
    Hurrican Coffee Co.
    Dungeness Wilderness Area
    Olympic Discovery Trail
    Bella Rosa Coffee House
    Bike Garage
    Sound Bikes & Kayaks
    William Shore Pool
    Oven Spoonful
    Toad Lily Hostel
    Granny's Cafe
    Lake Crescent
    Log Cabin Resort
    Fairholm General Store & Cafe
    Hungry Bear Cafe
    Forks
    Bogachiel State Park
    Rainforest Hostel
    Kalaloch Lodge
    Creekside Restaurant
    Queets Trading Post
    South Beach Campground
    Quinault Internet Cafe
    Camp Willaby
    Hoquiam RV Park
    Westport Winery
    Tinderbox Coffee Roasters
    Tokeland Hotel
    Corner Cafe
    KOA Bay Center
    KOA Iwalco/Long Beach
    Washington Kite Festival
    Imperial Schooner
    OREGON
    Three Cups Coffee House
    Bikes and Beyond
    Norblad Hotel and Hostel
    Fort George Brewery
    Astoria Co-op
    Astoria Riverwalk
    Liberty Theater
    Columbia Cafe
    Norma's Seafood & Steak
    Driftwood Restaurant
    Sleepy Monks Coffee
    Nehalem State Park
    Roost Cafe
    Kelly's Brighton Marina
    Rockaway Beach
    Port of Garibaldi
    Cape Lookout B&B
    Camp Lookout State Park
    Pelican Pub & Brewery
    McMenamin's Pub & Brewery
    Haystack Coffee Roasters
    Devil's Lake State Park
    Pacific Grind
    Georgie's Beachside Grill
    Local Ocean Seafoods
    Newport Historic Bayfront
    Bridgewater Fish House
    Jesse Honeyman State Park
    Jitterbug N Java Cafe
    Charelston
    Miller's at the Cove Sports Bar
    Sunset Bay State Park
    Bandon Coffee Cafe
    The Crazy Norwegian's Fish & Chips
    Prehistoric Gardens
    Porthole Cafe
    Harris State Beach Park
    NORTHERN CALIFORNIA
    Trees of Mystery
    Palm Cafe
    Patrick's Point State Park
    Beachcomber Cafe
    Caffe Mokka
    Arcata Marsh
    Avenue of the Giants
    Riverbend Cellars
    Humboldt Redwoods Park
    Miranda Avenue Cafe
    The Peg House
    Westport Union Landing Park
    Headlands Coffee House
    Van Damme State Park
    Elk Store
    Point Arena Market & Cafe
    Manchester KOA
    Trinks Cafe
    Grestle Cove Campground
    Timber Cove Inn
    Fort Ross
    River's End Restaurant
    Bodega Dunes Campground
    Coffee Cove
    Hog Island Oyster Farm
    Tomales Bay Foods
    Fair Fix Cafe
    Taste of Rome Cafe
    CENTRAL CALIFORNIA
    HI-City Center (SF) Hostel
    Sam's Chowder House
    Barbara's Fishtrap
    Half Moon Bay State Beach
    Half Moon Bay Coffee Co.
    Ano Nuevo Reserve
    Pidgeon Point Hostel
    Highway 1 Brewing Co.
    Whale City Bakery and Cafe
    Highway 1 Brewing Co.
    Santa Cruz Roasting Co.
    Verve Coffee Roasters
    Riva Fish House
    O'mei
    Cafe Sparrow
    Gayle's Bakery & Roticceria
    Mr. Toots Coffeehouse
    Big Sur
    Rocky Point Restaurant
    Big Sur River Inn
    Nepenthe
    Esalen Institute
    Big Sur State Park
    Lucia Lodge
    Kirk Creek Campground
    Whale Watcher's Inn
    Ragged Point Inn
    Piedras Blancas Seal Rookery
    San Simeon State Park
    El Colibri Hotel
    Top Dog Cafe
    The Great American Fish Co.
    Hostel Obispo
    Avilla Hot Springs
    Avilla Valley Barn
    Pasion Mexican Restaurant
    SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
    Jalama Beach Store & Grill
    Neptune's Net
    Leo Carrillo State Park
    Cafecito Organico
    Lily's Cafe
    Santa Monica Hostel
    Joe's Fish Market
    San Clemente State Beach
    Davino's Cabo Grill & Cantina
    Beach Break Cafe
    Foodie Amour
    Cardiff Seaside Market
    San Elijo State Beach Camp
    HI Point Loma Hostel
    Pirate's Cove Tiki Port
    Ocean Beach Food Co-op
    Bernie's Bike Shop
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