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Bogachiel State Park To South Beach Campground

8/13/2013

11 Comments

 
Picture
Washington's Pacific Coast and Olympic Penninsula
Distance (mi) = 38
Ave Speed (mph) = 9.3
Max Speed (mph) = 23.9
Time (h:m) = 4:02

Route:
101 W/S, South Beach Campground

Cities:
Kalaloch Lodge


After an early 7:30 start, from Bogachiel, I climbed miles of moderately ascending sections on 101 where the shoulders were small or moderate.  Traffic was relatively light ... empty logging semi tractor trailers heading South to pick up their loads ... this is timber harvesting country.  After grinding out long ascents, the road winds around Olympic National Forest in series of roller coaster hills.  Some of the short hills are steep. The road in this section is rough and caution is advised on downhill runs.  The shoulder is small mostly.

The routes traverses through the Hoh Rain Forest and the Hoh Indian Reservation.  Eventually, the road enters the Olympic National Park area. About 16 miles from Bogachiel, there is a hostel on the left side of the road called the Rainforest Hostel ... there was not much activity there when I passed by.  After 25 miles, I reached  the Pacific Coast.   The improved road with moderate shoulders parallels the Pacific Ocean to the South Beach Campground.

The only respite for the rider is at the Kalaloch Lodge which has overnight accommodations in the lodge and cabins on the bluff. .. a decent restaurant is also located on the premises, Creekside Dining Restaurant.  No WiFi at the lodge.  This is a recommended stop as the property sits on the bluff on the Pacific Ocean.  The view is spectacular and a short hike to the beach provides good access to the many tide pools in the area.  A general store is next to the lodge.  After a lunch of "Kalaloch salmon burger," I caught up on my writing inspired by a majestic view of the Pacific.  As I was about to depart for South Beach Campground, I crossed paths with Dan, a young man from Chicago who had an open-ended plan to cycle down the California coast.  A stranger next to us said, "Is this your son? I said, "No, but he could be."  You will get to meet Dan in the video documentary when it is released next spring.

The South Beach Campground is primitive with no water but there are restroom facilities.  It sits on bluff overlooking the vast Pacific Ocean with easy access to miles of pristine beach with surf action and waves pounding the beach.  There are opportunities for spectacular sunsets when it is not overcast.  The beach is covered with giant logs washed on shore by storms.  I heard the sounds of ocean surf all night and for the first time on the trip, my feet met the frigid waters of the ocean.

The campground was full, but Bill and his wife from Tacoma offered to share their RV space.  Bill retired from the Puget Sound Bank after a lifetime career there.  They travel in their Pleasure  Way RV.  The neighbors, Nemie and Cora are from the Philippines, but keep a house for the summers in Bremerton where Neime spent a career there in the Navy shipyard. 

For dinner, I purchased smoked salmon at Queets Trading Post.  It was made by the Quinault tribe, known locally as "The Salmon People."  The excellent alder wood smoked salmon is a testament to their craft.  The tribe ceremonially honors this fish that populate their pristine river and ocean waters.  Bill invited us for home made chocolate chip cookies and ice cram for dessert.

The only WiFi in the area is at a small grocery store and gas station, The  Queets Trading Post, which is located two miles further South on 101 (left side of the road).
11 Comments
Gyongyi Szirom
8/14/2013 10:43:18 am

It looks like it's extremely scenic...glad you are having a good ride.

Reply
deb
8/14/2013 10:59:17 am

I love that area, I knew you would too!

Reply
Dianne
8/14/2013 11:25:13 am

Good food, new friends, beautiful scenery.....enjoy your journey!

Reply
Krink
8/14/2013 11:11:03 pm

Fabulous writing- really enjoying hearing about the people u r meeting

Reply
deb allen
8/15/2013 12:33:11 am

the photos have been great and am so glad you are having a great adventure.

Reply
Krink
8/15/2013 01:47:32 am

Thinking about u !! Have any lattes lately?

Reply
Aloha Annie
8/15/2013 04:03:51 am

Happy B-Day Sailor
"Older the Grape the sweeter the Wine"
A.A.

Reply
Hy Rosenfeld
8/15/2013 12:47:31 pm

Your commentary is fantastic!!
I must admit you have talent.
The photos are great
Deb gave me the proper method to your web site .
Happy Birhday again.........

Reply
Aloha Annie
8/15/2013 04:24:56 pm

B-Day Poem

A Ribbon of Road.
The Land expands.
As you Canvas your way.
To the Distance Horizons.

You are Blessed, A. A.

Reply
Jane Rosenfeld
8/16/2013 12:13:53 pm

8/16/13 Happy Belated Birthday, Voyager.
OK, now you're on the "favorites bar", that's how interesting this trip has become.
How about that chocolate cheesecake with raspberries on your return? Something to think about anyway.
Pedal on...............
Dessert Queen

Reply
Steve Szirom
8/16/2013 12:34:01 pm

Thanks Jane, you are making me druel.

Reply

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    About the Journal

    Picture
    The Trip Journal is Steve Szirom's account of his West Coast bike tour from the Canadian border to the Mexican border following the Pacific Coast. Posts will be made regularly depending on the availability of Wi-Fi.

    I will be staying mostly at state parks but will also make use of hostels the Warm Showers and Couch Surfing networks when available...and even a motel or two when nothing else is available.

    The postings will cover each segment of the trip.. The most recent segment posting is always at the top.  

    Notes will be made where I divert from the initial plan.  Items of interest and recommended businesses and services will be mentioned based on my experience. 

    As a matter of definition when I mention "road shoulder" it means the following : no shoulder (0 feet), small shoulder (0-2 feet), moderate shoulder (2-4 feet), wide shoulder (greater than 4 feet)

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    Recommended

    The following hyper-linked recommendations are based on my personal visits/reviews and are listed in date order visited starting with earliest.

    WASHINGTON
    Five Guys

    Lettered Streets Cafe
    Anthony's@Squalicum Harbor

    Tony's Coffeehouse
    Larrabee State Park
    Edison
    Padilla Bay Trail
    Tommy Thomson Trail
    Deception Pass Bridge
    Deception Pass State Park
    Coupeville Wharf
    Keystone Ferry
    Port Townsend Food Co-op
    Old Fort Townsend State Park
    The Garden Espresso
    Hurrican Coffee Co.
    Dungeness Wilderness Area
    Olympic Discovery Trail
    Bella Rosa Coffee House
    Bike Garage
    Sound Bikes & Kayaks
    William Shore Pool
    Oven Spoonful
    Toad Lily Hostel
    Granny's Cafe
    Lake Crescent
    Log Cabin Resort
    Fairholm General Store & Cafe
    Hungry Bear Cafe
    Forks
    Bogachiel State Park
    Rainforest Hostel
    Kalaloch Lodge
    Creekside Restaurant
    Queets Trading Post
    South Beach Campground
    Quinault Internet Cafe
    Camp Willaby
    Hoquiam RV Park
    Westport Winery
    Tinderbox Coffee Roasters
    Tokeland Hotel
    Corner Cafe
    KOA Bay Center
    KOA Iwalco/Long Beach
    Washington Kite Festival
    Imperial Schooner
    OREGON
    Three Cups Coffee House
    Bikes and Beyond
    Norblad Hotel and Hostel
    Fort George Brewery
    Astoria Co-op
    Astoria Riverwalk
    Liberty Theater
    Columbia Cafe
    Norma's Seafood & Steak
    Driftwood Restaurant
    Sleepy Monks Coffee
    Nehalem State Park
    Roost Cafe
    Kelly's Brighton Marina
    Rockaway Beach
    Port of Garibaldi
    Cape Lookout B&B
    Camp Lookout State Park
    Pelican Pub & Brewery
    McMenamin's Pub & Brewery
    Haystack Coffee Roasters
    Devil's Lake State Park
    Pacific Grind
    Georgie's Beachside Grill
    Local Ocean Seafoods
    Newport Historic Bayfront
    Bridgewater Fish House
    Jesse Honeyman State Park
    Jitterbug N Java Cafe
    Charelston
    Miller's at the Cove Sports Bar
    Sunset Bay State Park
    Bandon Coffee Cafe
    The Crazy Norwegian's Fish & Chips
    Prehistoric Gardens
    Porthole Cafe
    Harris State Beach Park
    NORTHERN CALIFORNIA
    Trees of Mystery
    Palm Cafe
    Patrick's Point State Park
    Beachcomber Cafe
    Caffe Mokka
    Arcata Marsh
    Avenue of the Giants
    Riverbend Cellars
    Humboldt Redwoods Park
    Miranda Avenue Cafe
    The Peg House
    Westport Union Landing Park
    Headlands Coffee House
    Van Damme State Park
    Elk Store
    Point Arena Market & Cafe
    Manchester KOA
    Trinks Cafe
    Grestle Cove Campground
    Timber Cove Inn
    Fort Ross
    River's End Restaurant
    Bodega Dunes Campground
    Coffee Cove
    Hog Island Oyster Farm
    Tomales Bay Foods
    Fair Fix Cafe
    Taste of Rome Cafe
    CENTRAL CALIFORNIA
    HI-City Center (SF) Hostel
    Sam's Chowder House
    Barbara's Fishtrap
    Half Moon Bay State Beach
    Half Moon Bay Coffee Co.
    Ano Nuevo Reserve
    Pidgeon Point Hostel
    Highway 1 Brewing Co.
    Whale City Bakery and Cafe
    Highway 1 Brewing Co.
    Santa Cruz Roasting Co.
    Verve Coffee Roasters
    Riva Fish House
    O'mei
    Cafe Sparrow
    Gayle's Bakery & Roticceria
    Mr. Toots Coffeehouse
    Big Sur
    Rocky Point Restaurant
    Big Sur River Inn
    Nepenthe
    Esalen Institute
    Big Sur State Park
    Lucia Lodge
    Kirk Creek Campground
    Whale Watcher's Inn
    Ragged Point Inn
    Piedras Blancas Seal Rookery
    San Simeon State Park
    El Colibri Hotel
    Top Dog Cafe
    The Great American Fish Co.
    Hostel Obispo
    Avilla Hot Springs
    Avilla Valley Barn
    Pasion Mexican Restaurant
    SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
    Jalama Beach Store & Grill
    Neptune's Net
    Leo Carrillo State Park
    Cafecito Organico
    Lily's Cafe
    Santa Monica Hostel
    Joe's Fish Market
    San Clemente State Beach
    Davino's Cabo Grill & Cantina
    Beach Break Cafe
    Foodie Amour
    Cardiff Seaside Market
    San Elijo State Beach Camp
    HI Point Loma Hostel
    Pirate's Cove Tiki Port
    Ocean Beach Food Co-op
    Bernie's Bike Shop
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