Ave Speed (mph) = 9.3
Max Speed (mph) = 23.9
Time (h:m) = 4:02
Route:
101 W/S, South Beach Campground
Cities:
Kalaloch Lodge
After an early 7:30 start, from Bogachiel, I climbed miles of moderately ascending sections on 101 where the shoulders were small or moderate. Traffic was relatively light ... empty logging semi tractor trailers heading South to pick up their loads ... this is timber harvesting country. After grinding out long ascents, the road winds around Olympic National Forest in series of roller coaster hills. Some of the short hills are steep. The road in this section is rough and caution is advised on downhill runs. The shoulder is small mostly.
The routes traverses through the Hoh Rain Forest and the Hoh Indian Reservation. Eventually, the road enters the Olympic National Park area. About 16 miles from Bogachiel, there is a hostel on the left side of the road called the Rainforest Hostel ... there was not much activity there when I passed by. After 25 miles, I reached the Pacific Coast. The improved road with moderate shoulders parallels the Pacific Ocean to the South Beach Campground.
The only respite for the rider is at the Kalaloch Lodge which has overnight accommodations in the lodge and cabins on the bluff. .. a decent restaurant is also located on the premises, Creekside Dining Restaurant. No WiFi at the lodge. This is a recommended stop as the property sits on the bluff on the Pacific Ocean. The view is spectacular and a short hike to the beach provides good access to the many tide pools in the area. A general store is next to the lodge. After a lunch of "Kalaloch salmon burger," I caught up on my writing inspired by a majestic view of the Pacific. As I was about to depart for South Beach Campground, I crossed paths with Dan, a young man from Chicago who had an open-ended plan to cycle down the California coast. A stranger next to us said, "Is this your son? I said, "No, but he could be." You will get to meet Dan in the video documentary when it is released next spring.
The South Beach Campground is primitive with no water but there are restroom facilities. It sits on bluff overlooking the vast Pacific Ocean with easy access to miles of pristine beach with surf action and waves pounding the beach. There are opportunities for spectacular sunsets when it is not overcast. The beach is covered with giant logs washed on shore by storms. I heard the sounds of ocean surf all night and for the first time on the trip, my feet met the frigid waters of the ocean.
The campground was full, but Bill and his wife from Tacoma offered to share their RV space. Bill retired from the Puget Sound Bank after a lifetime career there. They travel in their Pleasure Way RV. The neighbors, Nemie and Cora are from the Philippines, but keep a house for the summers in Bremerton where Neime spent a career there in the Navy shipyard.
For dinner, I purchased smoked salmon at Queets Trading Post. It was made by the Quinault tribe, known locally as "The Salmon People." The excellent alder wood smoked salmon is a testament to their craft. The tribe ceremonially honors this fish that populate their pristine river and ocean waters. Bill invited us for home made chocolate chip cookies and ice cram for dessert.
The only WiFi in the area is at a small grocery store and gas station, The Queets Trading Post, which is located two miles further South on 101 (left side of the road).