Distance (mi) = 41.6
Ave Speed (mph) = 10.4
Max Speed (mph) = 21.1
Time (h:m) = 4:00
Route:
101, 105 S, Montesano St., W. Sprague Ave., Forest Ave., 105 S, Tokeland Rd., Tokeland Hotel
Cities:
Aberdeen, Westport, Grayland, Tokeland
As I headed out of the RV park, I stopped at Tully's for a latte and an Odwalla super green smoothie. It was beginning to rain, it was chilly, and my sunglasses did not have wipers.
I had to cross a bridge after leaving Hoquiam to Aberdeen, the economic center of Grays Harbor County. Since it did not have a shoulder I took the footpath. After almost crossing the bridge, the path was blocked by a wall. For a split second. I felt like a rat trapped in a cubicle maze. I retraced my steps and rode across the bridge when traffic was light. This was a bridge designer's cruel joke.
Although it's hard to imagine today, at one point Aberdeen was a notorious Western outpost at the turn of the 20th century, with a number of saloons, brothels, and gambling halls in and around the town. Because of the wild atmosphere associated with these establishments, Aberdeen was nicknamed "The Hellhole of the Pacific," or "The Port of Missing Men", because of its high murder rate. One notable resident was Billy Gohl, known locally as Billy "Ghoul", who was rumored to have killed at least 140 men. During the Great Depression, Aberdeen was hit hard, reducing the number of major sawmills from 37 to 9. Mill owners hired Filipino and Jewish immigrants to keep wages low in order to stay in business. The timber industry continued to boom, but by the late 1970s most of the timber had been logged. Most of the mills were closing down by the 1970s and 1980s.
Leaving Aberdeen, I broke off 101 to SR105 which would route by Westport, a surfing community. It was wet and cold but my spirits were high because for the next 20 miles the shoulders were wide and smooth.
"Baby that's what I like,
Chantilly lace and a pretty face..."
As I neared Wesport, my first winery appeared out of the mist. I parked my bike, and went in dry off and do a tasting. I was surprised how lively the tasting room was on that dreary weekday. The Westport Winery is reviewed in a separate post.
Back on the road, I opted to take a three mile detour to visit Westport, a popular spot for surfing and ocean sport fishing. The coastal area around Westport reminds me of Oahu's North Beach area...funky with hints of pirates and treasure.
In Westport I discovered an espresso joint that roasted its own beans and had excellent espresso drinks. The Tinderbox Coffee Roasters is only a year old. Nick, the owner, said there were a few other hobbyist roasters in town. He fixed me up a 'hobo' pack, a dark blend, filters and stirring sticks (the sticks poke through holes in the paper filter, the stick lays across the cup, put ground coffee in the cup, fill with hot water). Take a picture on the bench with the ocean background, play in the game room, or cruise the web. It even has a setup for musicians. Check it out when you are in Westport.
Continuing on 105 in the early afternoon, the sky started to clear. On this stretch of 105, the road narrowed with smaller shoulders, rougher and sometimes with potholes. This is surfing country...that's cool dude. So, I pedaled on to Tokeland, eventually turning on to the Tokeland Road for a few miles.
As I arrived at Washington's oldest working hotel, Tokeland Hotel, a John Deere mowing tractor pulled up with a 70s something driver. After staring at each other for several seconds, I said "Hi there, you must be Scott." The driver said "Are you ready to tent it?"
Earlier, I had emailed the hotel and Scott responded that the hotel was full but let me pitch my tent on the grass behind the hotel. See my separate posting where I provide more details about this unique lodging.
Ave Speed (mph) = 10.4
Max Speed (mph) = 21.1
Time (h:m) = 4:00
Route:
101, 105 S, Montesano St., W. Sprague Ave., Forest Ave., 105 S, Tokeland Rd., Tokeland Hotel
Cities:
Aberdeen, Westport, Grayland, Tokeland
As I headed out of the RV park, I stopped at Tully's for a latte and an Odwalla super green smoothie. It was beginning to rain, it was chilly, and my sunglasses did not have wipers.
I had to cross a bridge after leaving Hoquiam to Aberdeen, the economic center of Grays Harbor County. Since it did not have a shoulder I took the footpath. After almost crossing the bridge, the path was blocked by a wall. For a split second. I felt like a rat trapped in a cubicle maze. I retraced my steps and rode across the bridge when traffic was light. This was a bridge designer's cruel joke.
Although it's hard to imagine today, at one point Aberdeen was a notorious Western outpost at the turn of the 20th century, with a number of saloons, brothels, and gambling halls in and around the town. Because of the wild atmosphere associated with these establishments, Aberdeen was nicknamed "The Hellhole of the Pacific," or "The Port of Missing Men", because of its high murder rate. One notable resident was Billy Gohl, known locally as Billy "Ghoul", who was rumored to have killed at least 140 men. During the Great Depression, Aberdeen was hit hard, reducing the number of major sawmills from 37 to 9. Mill owners hired Filipino and Jewish immigrants to keep wages low in order to stay in business. The timber industry continued to boom, but by the late 1970s most of the timber had been logged. Most of the mills were closing down by the 1970s and 1980s.
Leaving Aberdeen, I broke off 101 to SR105 which would route by Westport, a surfing community. It was wet and cold but my spirits were high because for the next 20 miles the shoulders were wide and smooth.
"Baby that's what I like,
Chantilly lace and a pretty face..."
As I neared Wesport, my first winery appeared out of the mist. I parked my bike, and went in dry off and do a tasting. I was surprised how lively the tasting room was on that dreary weekday. The Westport Winery is reviewed in a separate post.
Back on the road, I opted to take a three mile detour to visit Westport, a popular spot for surfing and ocean sport fishing. The coastal area around Westport reminds me of Oahu's North Beach area...funky with hints of pirates and treasure.
In Westport I discovered an espresso joint that roasted its own beans and had excellent espresso drinks. The Tinderbox Coffee Roasters is only a year old. Nick, the owner, said there were a few other hobbyist roasters in town. He fixed me up a 'hobo' pack, a dark blend, filters and stirring sticks (the sticks poke through holes in the paper filter, the stick lays across the cup, put ground coffee in the cup, fill with hot water). Take a picture on the bench with the ocean background, play in the game room, or cruise the web. It even has a setup for musicians. Check it out when you are in Westport.
Continuing on 105 in the early afternoon, the sky started to clear. On this stretch of 105, the road narrowed with smaller shoulders, rougher and sometimes with potholes. This is surfing country...that's cool dude. So, I pedaled on to Tokeland, eventually turning on to the Tokeland Road for a few miles.
As I arrived at Washington's oldest working hotel, Tokeland Hotel, a John Deere mowing tractor pulled up with a 70s something driver. After staring at each other for several seconds, I said "Hi there, you must be Scott." The driver said "Are you ready to tent it?"
Earlier, I had emailed the hotel and Scott responded that the hotel was full but let me pitch my tent on the grass behind the hotel. See my separate posting where I provide more details about this unique lodging.
The historic Tokeland Hotel
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