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Tsawwaassen to Bellingham

8/6/2015

I got up early and found it to be a blustery and rainy day, the last day of my tour. I hurried to pack the tent and gear so it would not get too wet. I was ready to roll by 8AM and commenced my 50-mile ride home after donning my foul weather riding gear.

The plan is to find my way to the Boundary Bay Dyke Trail, which is several miles from the camp, and avoid most of the highway traffic to reach White Rock by going of-road. It is a 15 mile long flat, gravel path which rims nearly the entire northwestern side of Boundary Bay, running from Tsawwassen into Delta and concluding in Surrey at Mud Bay Park. The wetlands along the trail provide a good habitat for birds of all types. Along the way you might see eagles, snowy owls, herons, ducks, and migrating birds depending on the time of year. Along the way, one will see remnants of pilings from oyster farming operations which was discontinued in the 1960s. The trail is used by farm tractors, horses, bike riders and hikers. The trail winds through Boundary Bay Regional Park. It is definitely the way to go when riding between the ferry terminal and White Rock.

I arrived at the border crossing and passed up a big line-up of cars to enter the special processing area for walkers and bike riders. In a few minutes, I was on my way to Blaine to take a break and have a bite to eat. I stopped at the Seaside Cafe and Bakery in Blaine and enjoyed a latte, and breakfast wrap.

From the cafe, I took Portal Way and Vista Drive to Ferndale. I rode down the old Pacific Highway to Bellingham which parallels Interstate 5. It ended at Bakerview near the airport and from there it was familiar territory to the finish line.

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Saltspring to Tsawwaassen

8/5/2015

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Today, the clouds gathered and threatened to rain. I figured it would be best to take a two-loonie shower (eight minutes) and pack up camp as soon as possible so the tent would not get wet if the rains came. Before departing at 10:00AM, I made some strong French press coffee on my Jetboil.

The downhill ride to Ganges was exhilarating ... I had to use my breaks judiciously to maintain control going downhill with 300 pounds of loaded bike weight and rider weight. The other reason for breaking is because the roads on the islands have rough patches, bumps, and gravelly areas. I restrict my top speed going down steep hills to 25-30 miles per hour, or even less on rough roads.

The three-hour ride to Tsawwaassen which cost $9.50 made stops at Pender, Mayne and Galiano. With the arrival time of 7PM, it was fortunate there was a camping area within a 30-minute bike ride. Parkcanada RV Park is located in Tsawwassen, 20 minutes by bike from the ferry terminal, which serves Victoria, Nanaimo and the beautiful Gulf Islands. It is more like a parking lot for RVs than a campground. It has a tent area with picnic tables. It's main attraction for a biker is that it is near to the ferry terminal.

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Galiano to Saltspring Island

8/4/2015

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The ferry to Saltspring was delayed by over an hour making for a mid-afternoon arrival at Long Harbor. It changed the itinerary to a shorter bike ride that day. Before heading to camp, I rode to the island's biggest city, Ganges. The Long Harbor Road is hilly with longer rolling sections and several steep grades to climb. Just before entering Ganges, there is a short segment to ride on the Fulford-Ganges Road, a heavily trafficked roadway.

As I rode into Ganges, I passed a big marina on the left and soon was in the center of the city. I spent several hours at the TJ Beans coffeehouse to catch on my blog. It turned out that it was an excellent choice ... good coffee, good sandwiches, and fast Wi-Fi. The central area of Ganges was jammed with cars and people. Saltspring Island is the biggest and busiest in the Gulf Islands chain.

At 6:30PM, I picked a bento box to-go at Arrigato Sushi and headed along the busy Fulford-Ganges Road to the Mowhinna Creek Campground. It was brutal climb up a steep hill to get to it. It was a small basic campground which can accommodate RVs and tents. It has a children's play area but no store or any other frills. The cheapest tent sites were $22. The showers and bathrooms were clean. After eating the teriyaki chicken, I sat down on the bench near the office to charge my tablet and to watch a few YouTube clips. The proprietor lady popped out the door and said, "Love, you can't watch videos and movies here because our Internet bandwidth is very low and I can't download our email." I replied, "Yes, I noticed that."

TJ Beans Coffee Shop, Ganges, Saltspring, Island

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Mayne to Galiano Island

8/3/2015

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I left the Springwater Lodge at 8AM and stopped at the local Sunny Mayne Bakery and Cafe for coffee and a blueberry muffin before making the hilly ride to the Village Bay terminal. This is my third island in the lower Gulf Islands group.   They are all very hilly so far.

The 40-minute ferry ride to Galiano Island departed at 11:20AM today. Upon arrival, I noted the big hill to climb.   The roadway sign warned that drivers must have chains in the winter. My only consolation was that "what goes up, must come down."

I was on my way to camping for the night at the Montague Harbor Marine Provincial Park.   The fee was $20 for the night whether you are bike camping or with car. The park was mostly full but I secured a space in an overflow area in a nice grassy field near the shell beach. This was a three day holiday (BC Day) for the Canadians so the island was busy with Canadian visitors. I learned that Canadians have a three day holiday every month.

Montague Harbor is the largest harbor and anchoring field in the Gulf Islands and is managed by the provincial park service. It has small marina with docks and moorings to rent, as well as a small cafe and store by the docks. Vessels under 36 feet can tie on the docks.   Bigger boats need to pick up a mooring ball or anchor out.   The cove was full on this holiday weekend. It is an anchorage used by many first time boaters because the bottom is mud and even when not anchored properly the boat is not likely to drag.

I heard that there was a "pub bus" that made the 4-mile hilly, bumpy and twisty run to the Humming Bird Pub on Sturdies Bay Road.   I noticed the pub on the ride to Montague Harbor. The bus leaves every hour starting at 5PM from the camp and the marina.   The old yellow bus was retired from delivering children to school and converted to a singing musical madhouse with cymbals mounted above the windshield delivering adults (and children) to the pub.

The bus driver is Tommy Transit ... and is the band leader of the mayhem which ensues during the 20 minute 'transit' time. Upon entering the bus, he hands you rythm instruments or shaker to play along with the music (rock-n-roll, Beatles, country). Tommy does not text while driving but there is no rule about playing percussion instruments with a drumstick, entertaining the passengers, and being a tour guide. Between music of the 60s, songs, and antics, he doles out some "Tommy wisdom." Predictably, after pub time, the return trip to camp is a rowdy songfest. On my particular return trip, the bus was rocking out with the Beatles' Yellow Submarine, Johnny Cash's Ring of Fire, and Fats Domino's Blueberry Hill (apparently a tradittion).

Tommy (real name Tom Tompkins) who drove a transit bus for 21 years in Vancouver, BC in an earlier life, describes himself as "an inspirational speaker inspiring people who work with the public to be ambassadors of change." He has been doing the Tommy bus driving show since 2007, 800 to 1,000 times a year. The pub bus itself has been in operation for 31 years. Tommy's positivity book, "Bus Tales: How to Change the World From 9 to 5", is available at his website www.TommyTransit.com or on Amazon. I made a 10-minute video of the bus ride which was posted to YouTube.

Galiano Island was named after the Spanish explorer Dionisio Galiano, who explored the area in 1792. Galiano was long inhabited by aboriginal people from the Penelakut First Nation and used by other Coast Salish nations. Midden pits at Montague Harbour suggest 3000 years of habitation. Today there is only one Indian Reserve on the island, Galiano Indian Reserve No. 9, located at the northern tip of the island and under Penelakut administration. Industries of the past were logging, fishing and charcoal-burning, although today tourism and the arts are the most common sources of employment.

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Pender to Mayne Island

8/2/2015

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Port Browning Resort and Marina was a good experience. There were lots kids and dogs running about and swimming in the pool. I had tasty cod fish and chips at their pub last night, prices are reasonable. Staff are friendly. Later a musician played till late hours but I retreated to my tent at nine and heard the music and raucus bar sounds from the tent.

After making coffee, I packed up and headed back to Otter Bay to catch the 11:05AM ferry to Mayne Island.

Mayne Island is nestled among the Southern Gulf Islands in British Columbia's Georgia Strait about midway between Victoria and Vancouver. The rustic island covers an area of approximately 25 square miles, and was named after Lieutenant Richard Mayne, who served aboard the H.M.S. Plumper during the 1850's.

Canadian Pacific Railway Ferries originally stopped at Miners Bay in Active Pass, dating back to the early 1900s when Mayne Island became an important stopover point for miners traveling north from Victoria to the Fraser River and the Caribou gold rush. Later the ferry dock was moved to Village Bay, a "village" in name only. Miners Bay is actually the village, and the island's business center, with many historical buildings and commercial outlets.

Today, Mayne is home to nearly 900 year-round residents. During the summer season, the population grows to around 3000. Most part-time residents have vacation homes here and many visitors stay in rented accommodations such as the Springwater Lodge, in Miner's Bay.

Springwater Lodge is where I decided to stay for the night Built in 1892, the old Springwater Lodge is one of British Columbia’s oldest running hotels. During the Fraser River and the Caribou gold rush, the lodge was a favorite stopover for miners. Conveniently located at the head of the Government Wharf, the original owner began offering rooms for lodgers in 1895.

There are six basic rooms upstairs in the lodge, but only four are usually available since two are used by full time residents. Three of the six face the bay. The rooms are "old timey" basic with a bed, small chest, small table and light on the ceiling (no electrical plugs in the rooms, no outside door locks). The rooms share a shower and toilet upstairs, but during my stay, the toilet was out of commission and was directed to use the bathroom downstairs. The bathroom and showers were not clean and carpets were in dire need of vacuuming. But sheets and towels were fresh.

Overlooking Active Pass, the views are fabulous from the deck of the restaurant and pub. The pub fare is good and the staff is friendly. The Wi-Fi is decent. The lodge is a step back in time, but it needs maintenance, and a good cleaning service. Many TripAdvisor reviewers say "eat here but don't sleep here."

Several two bedroom waterfront cabins with kitchenettes are also available.

In the afternoon, I rode to the Northeast side of the island to visit the Active Pass Lighthouse. Situated on Georgina Point, at Active Pass, the area is characterized by rocky bluffs and a coastal Douglas fir ecosystem.

The light station consists of a 45 ft white concrete cylindrical light tower which was built in 1969, an engine/radio room, a residence, a large garage and workshop and several small outbuildings. The light at Georgina Point was originally established in 1885, and has considerable local historical importance to the community. The site was automated and de-staffed in 1997. The light continues to be in active service as a navigational aid, used by vessels transiting Active Pass as well as those passing in Georgia Strait.

On the way to the lighthouse, I visited St. Mary Magdalene Church, an Anglican church built in 1897. An early Church steeple cross was donated and carved by local islanders. "God and Ocean" are carved in Japanese characters on the cross identifying the Church and its location adjacent to Active Pass in Miners Bay.

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Sidney to Pender Island

8/1/2015

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Port Browning Resort and Marina

There was only one bike camper at McDonald Campground in the morning. He was a 20 something young man starting on the West Coast route I did two years ago.   I gave him some tips and, after making coffee, I scurried to make my 10:05AM ferry at Swartz Bay to Pender Island.

I discovered the Lochside Regional Trail which will be useful to know for future bike trips to Vancouver Island. It is the trail I rode on from Sydney to camp and on to the Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal. The Lochside Regional Trail is an 18-mile trail that runs from the Swartz Bay Ferry Terminal to Victoria. The trail is a popular route both for commuting and recreation. It is frequented by people walking, running, cycling, skateboarding and even riding horses. The trail was created in 2001 and connects to the longer Galloping Goose Regional Trail (34 miles Victoria to Sooke). The two trails connect at the Switch Bridge in Saanich. The Lochside Trail is the ticket for off-road bike riding to Victoria from the Swartz Bay and Sydney ferry terminals.

The ferry ride to Pender for a walk-on with bike is $12 and the trip takes about an hour. Pender is hilly with twisty roads with mainly no shoulders.   My plan was to stay at the Beaumont Campground which is part of the national park system but local knowledge indicated that it was not good for bike campers because the camp access was 45 minutes of hiking over a gnarly trail.   So I was on the search for a camp on a very busy weekend on Pender. On the way someone mentioned that there might be a few camping spots at the Port Browning Resort and Marina.

I rode down the steep road to the marina and was able to secure a tent spot for a very reasonable $13.    The marina is a favorite destination among boaters and island visitors exploring the Southern Gulf Islands because of our many amenities and friendly staff. It offers transient moorage, a convenience store, laundry and shower facilities, tent and RV camping areas, seasonal outdoor pool, ATM, WiFi internet access, charter fishing and kayak boat rentals, the oceanside Port Browning Cafe and, a longtime local favorite, the oceanfront Port Browning Pub. It is located near Pender Island's Driftwood Center shopping hub, the main commercial area on the island.   Boats, pub, showers, Wi-Fi, camping ... what else could a bike touring camper want?

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Tsawwaassen to Bellingham

Saltspring to Tsawwaassen

Galiano to Saltspring Island

Mayne to Galiano Island

Pender to Mayne Island

Sidney to Pender Island

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